Hungary, Ukraine, Poland, Czech Republic, & Portugal
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Day 4: Cairo and Budapest (continued from Day 3 in Cairo, Egypt)
Turkish Airlines was our next transportation provider with flights from Cairo to Budapest with a stop in Istanbul, Turkey. Just like with Air China, we had to go through security a second time before boarding. Anything purchased once we were inside the terminal (past airport security) still had to be thrown away and not taken on the plane. I prefer to have a bottle of water with me – especially when traveling in unknown environments and hated it when I had to dispose of it. And it didn’t matter if the items bought in the secured terminal were unopened. In addition to the inconvenience of throwing away goods bought in the terminal, the added security check meant that planes did not depart on schedule. Although we planned a long enough layover at each stop, the tardy departure meant that we lost valuable minutes at our lay over. Not only was there insufficient time to use the restroom and buy a beverage, it also meant that making it to the next gate in time was no longer to be taken for granted.
Once we landed in Istanbul, we all-out sprinted to get to our gate on time. We made it but were hot (sweaty, actually) and thirsty. And we no longer had drinks. Argh! It took us about six hours from Cairo to Budapest. We made it through Customs and Immigration. Sadly, the same couldn’t be said for our luggage. We filed a claim with the airlines and were given a phone number to report and arrange delivery.
Turkish Airlines was our next transportation provider with flights from Cairo to Budapest with a stop in Istanbul, Turkey. Just like with Air China, we had to go through security a second time before boarding. Anything purchased once we were inside the terminal (past airport security) still had to be thrown away and not taken on the plane. I prefer to have a bottle of water with me – especially when traveling in unknown environments and hated it when I had to dispose of it. And it didn’t matter if the items bought in the secured terminal were unopened. In addition to the inconvenience of throwing away goods bought in the terminal, the added security check meant that planes did not depart on schedule. Although we planned a long enough layover at each stop, the tardy departure meant that we lost valuable minutes at our lay over. Not only was there insufficient time to use the restroom and buy a beverage, it also meant that making it to the next gate in time was no longer to be taken for granted.
Once we landed in Istanbul, we all-out sprinted to get to our gate on time. We made it but were hot (sweaty, actually) and thirsty. And we no longer had drinks. Argh! It took us about six hours from Cairo to Budapest. We made it through Customs and Immigration. Sadly, the same couldn’t be said for our luggage. We filed a claim with the airlines and were given a phone number to report and arrange delivery.
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We located our Airbnb rental, splashed our faces with fresh water, and started exploring our temporary neighborhood. Even though we were in a super contemporary, hipster area, it was still chock full of historical sights. Our lunch at a neighborhood bar was extra tasty as the bar is host to a farmer’s market on Sundays. I returned to our Airbnb for a nap and to await our luggage. Adam cozied up to a bar with some locals to get a feel for the area and plan our next activities. While out and about he found a Thai massage parlor (you know our love for massages!) and moseyed right in. During his massage the masseuse lathered Adam's back with oil and proceeded to walk on his back. During this time another masseuse called Adam's masseuse's name. What happened next as told by Adam based upon his sense of touch. His masseuse stopped, pivoted 180 degrees, began to teeter, slipped and fell right off his back, elbowing him on her way to the floor. The woman managed to tell Adam she'd be right back as she hobbled out for the room. Moments later, a different masseuse returned to finish Adam's massage. Adam struggled to control his laughter, conceal his pain, and finish the massage.
Our luggage was still lost when the appointed time for delivery arrived. We had to stay close to the loft we rented the entire evening. We were afraid to both sleep at the same time fearing that we’d miss the airline with information about our luggage. So, neither of us slept much. Sleep deprivation began to negatively impact both of us. Fun fact: Traveling when you are older isn’t as easy when traveling in your young adulthood. Our first joint trip to Peru at the ages of 21 and 24 was far easier even with altitude than traveling at the ages of 28 and 31.
Hear ye, hear ye! At 11 pm our bags were delivered! At that point, we both had a second wind so we hit the street for sightseeing by moonlight. It was szép (beautiful)! We crossed the Chain Bridge which is a dazzling suspension bridge across the Danube River connecting the areas of Buda and Pest to form Budapest. The night view of Budapest from the bridge was incredible. As we strolled about we realized that Budapest is a city that really doesn’t sleep. Revelry was around every corner. Restaurant and bars were more than abundant and very crowded.
Our luggage was still lost when the appointed time for delivery arrived. We had to stay close to the loft we rented the entire evening. We were afraid to both sleep at the same time fearing that we’d miss the airline with information about our luggage. So, neither of us slept much. Sleep deprivation began to negatively impact both of us. Fun fact: Traveling when you are older isn’t as easy when traveling in your young adulthood. Our first joint trip to Peru at the ages of 21 and 24 was far easier even with altitude than traveling at the ages of 28 and 31.
Hear ye, hear ye! At 11 pm our bags were delivered! At that point, we both had a second wind so we hit the street for sightseeing by moonlight. It was szép (beautiful)! We crossed the Chain Bridge which is a dazzling suspension bridge across the Danube River connecting the areas of Buda and Pest to form Budapest. The night view of Budapest from the bridge was incredible. As we strolled about we realized that Budapest is a city that really doesn’t sleep. Revelry was around every corner. Restaurant and bars were more than abundant and very crowded.
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Day 5: Budapest
We visited Buda Castle built in the 11th century, destroyed by the Turks in the 14th and 15th centuries, and rebuilt in the 16th century. It once served as the residence for Hungary’s royals. Currently visitors are unable to tour inside. I found it interesting to see the various building material and how they evolved over time. For instance, the oldest areas were made with stone while the more recent (if you can call a couple hundred years ago recent!) were built with brick. To the castle’s immediate left was Sándor Palace, the home of Hungary’s president. A short distance up the street was a museum commemorating the works of a modern famous Hungarian, Harry Houdini. While it might not have been an ancient marvel, the Houdini Museum was a must-see on our list for Adam. The curators were eager to share with us the story of Harry Houdini and a magician performed some of his magic tricks. Adam exercised some of his stealth maneuver skills and alerted the magician of my birthday. I'd slipped out of the performance momentarily for a restroom refresher and when I returned, I was summoned to the stage to help with a special magic trick. For the record, it was not my birthday.
A stone’s throw up the road was the Halászbástya -- Fisherman's Bastion, a lovely terraced area on the bank of the Danube. Its wall provided protection to Buda Castle and was protected by fishermen during the Middle Ages. The Bastian was built between 1895-1902 as a historical monument to celebrate Hungary’s millennium (1000th birthday). It has a viewing terrace along with seven towers to represent the seven Magyar (Hungarian) tribes’ chieftains. The Bastion was nearly destroyed during WWII but was restored. It’s a beautiful place to take a stroll and people-watch.
We happened upon a Holocaust memorial entitled Shoes on the Danube Bank. Sixty-six pairs of shoes fashioned as shoes of the 1940s were cast in bronze and placed along the river walk. The shoes commemorated the Jews and other "undesirables" rounded up and transported to the spot, forced to take off their shoes, and then shot to death with their bodies left where they fell in the Danube. The trail of shoes is a simple yet incredibly moving, somber testimony to the atrocities of WWII that impacted Hungary as well as its neighboring countries.
We visited Buda Castle built in the 11th century, destroyed by the Turks in the 14th and 15th centuries, and rebuilt in the 16th century. It once served as the residence for Hungary’s royals. Currently visitors are unable to tour inside. I found it interesting to see the various building material and how they evolved over time. For instance, the oldest areas were made with stone while the more recent (if you can call a couple hundred years ago recent!) were built with brick. To the castle’s immediate left was Sándor Palace, the home of Hungary’s president. A short distance up the street was a museum commemorating the works of a modern famous Hungarian, Harry Houdini. While it might not have been an ancient marvel, the Houdini Museum was a must-see on our list for Adam. The curators were eager to share with us the story of Harry Houdini and a magician performed some of his magic tricks. Adam exercised some of his stealth maneuver skills and alerted the magician of my birthday. I'd slipped out of the performance momentarily for a restroom refresher and when I returned, I was summoned to the stage to help with a special magic trick. For the record, it was not my birthday.
A stone’s throw up the road was the Halászbástya -- Fisherman's Bastion, a lovely terraced area on the bank of the Danube. Its wall provided protection to Buda Castle and was protected by fishermen during the Middle Ages. The Bastian was built between 1895-1902 as a historical monument to celebrate Hungary’s millennium (1000th birthday). It has a viewing terrace along with seven towers to represent the seven Magyar (Hungarian) tribes’ chieftains. The Bastion was nearly destroyed during WWII but was restored. It’s a beautiful place to take a stroll and people-watch.
We happened upon a Holocaust memorial entitled Shoes on the Danube Bank. Sixty-six pairs of shoes fashioned as shoes of the 1940s were cast in bronze and placed along the river walk. The shoes commemorated the Jews and other "undesirables" rounded up and transported to the spot, forced to take off their shoes, and then shot to death with their bodies left where they fell in the Danube. The trail of shoes is a simple yet incredibly moving, somber testimony to the atrocities of WWII that impacted Hungary as well as its neighboring countries.
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Adam pleaded to visit the Great Market Hall, an indoor marketplace in which locals and tourists alike can choose from an array of foods, spices, clothing, and souvenirs on the Pest side of the river. The large building itself is a marvel. It opened in 1897 and is decorated with Zsolnay tiles. There was a vast selection of meats, especially sausage, and paprika is what I remember most from the market along with the heat, but it was a nifty place.
We made our way toward Saint Stephen's Basilica. But our dogs (feet) were tired so we haled a young fellow for a lift on his bike-taxi. I felt bad for the young man who wasn’t much heavier than me but he delivered us to our destination. The Catholic Church Saint Stephen’s Basilica was named such in honor of the first king of Hungary. The Parliament building and Saint Stephen’s Basilica continue to be the tallest buildings in Budapest to symbolize the equal importance of worldly and spiritual thinking. Saint Stephen's was credited with transforming the country into a Christian state. He was executed on August 15, 1038, and his mummified body was brought to Buda in 1771. At one time his mummified body was laid to rest at the church; however, fear that his remains would be disturbed prompted it being moved. A relic – his right hand – was left in the church on permanent display in an ornate golden reliquary. The hand has been attributed to a number of miracles. I felt a little uncomfortable looking at a hand displayed before me. Nonetheless we lit a prayer candle as always before hitting the road.
Our short stop in Budapest ended as quickly as it began. The buildings were all spectacular, each in its own way. Simply put: it is a gorgeous, must-see city.
Sidebar: As seems to be typical with me, I got sick that one full day in Budapest (surprise, surprise). As there were no pubic restrooms, I did my best to support the local economy. I had forgotten about the infrequent luxury of air conditioning in Europe. Yes, a/c is a creature comfort that we westerners take for granted – but when sick I really missed it. I slept with wet clothes on me each night. We were fortunate to have a washing machine at this Airbnb (as well as the other locations later on) but had to line dry the clothes. It was so time consuming and inconvenient. We are definitely spoiled.
We made our way toward Saint Stephen's Basilica. But our dogs (feet) were tired so we haled a young fellow for a lift on his bike-taxi. I felt bad for the young man who wasn’t much heavier than me but he delivered us to our destination. The Catholic Church Saint Stephen’s Basilica was named such in honor of the first king of Hungary. The Parliament building and Saint Stephen’s Basilica continue to be the tallest buildings in Budapest to symbolize the equal importance of worldly and spiritual thinking. Saint Stephen's was credited with transforming the country into a Christian state. He was executed on August 15, 1038, and his mummified body was brought to Buda in 1771. At one time his mummified body was laid to rest at the church; however, fear that his remains would be disturbed prompted it being moved. A relic – his right hand – was left in the church on permanent display in an ornate golden reliquary. The hand has been attributed to a number of miracles. I felt a little uncomfortable looking at a hand displayed before me. Nonetheless we lit a prayer candle as always before hitting the road.
Our short stop in Budapest ended as quickly as it began. The buildings were all spectacular, each in its own way. Simply put: it is a gorgeous, must-see city.
Sidebar: As seems to be typical with me, I got sick that one full day in Budapest (surprise, surprise). As there were no pubic restrooms, I did my best to support the local economy. I had forgotten about the infrequent luxury of air conditioning in Europe. Yes, a/c is a creature comfort that we westerners take for granted – but when sick I really missed it. I slept with wet clothes on me each night. We were fortunate to have a washing machine at this Airbnb (as well as the other locations later on) but had to line dry the clothes. It was so time consuming and inconvenient. We are definitely spoiled.
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Day 6: Budapest and Kiev
By now we should have expected entering and leaving countries to usually require drama. When being processed through Budapest’s customs, we weren’t able to discern a difference in any of the signs above the lines. However, clearly there was an indication somewhere to avoid the desk to which we went! The agent shooed us away and pointed to the sign above and the other lines, then spouted something off. Mind you at this time there were maybe nine people going through customs and there were eight lines. There was no crowd to follow so we hadn’t a clue his lane was apparently closed. We looked up at all the signs and said, "They're all the same?" He came out from the desk to gripe at us and point to all the other signs once again and shake his head at us. He walked away as he continued to mutter under his breathe about us. We still didn't understand but chose another agent’s desk. While in the tiny line we realized there was a small light that indicated if the desk was open. What's interesting, however, is that another desk didn't have the light on and the man behind it was helping people. At least this time we had no trouble with our flight!
When our international flight landed in Kiev, we had to be processed through Customs and Immigration to enter Ukraine. We then had to locate the airline for our in-country flight. We picked up our luggage and took it to be inspected. There was a weight limit (not unusual in the US, right?) and we were over the limit. We had no other choice but to pull out some items, leave them be, weigh in, and then stuff the items back in the luggage. This seemed first to be illegal and second to be unnecessary. But when in Rome, I mean Kiev...
Next up for us was the security check. We both tripped the alarm as we walked through the security machine (though we still aren't sure how). As a prize, we both earned a thorough pat down. This was becoming our new normal as well. The couple behind us also set off the alarm, too. The man was patted down; the woman looked at the male security dude asking him what she needed to do. She was a very well-built woman whose tight-fitting clothing were working overtime. She must have said something right because the security agent waved her on to which we were shocked. Wouldn't the security guard prefer to pat down of all people this voluptuous woman?
By now we should have expected entering and leaving countries to usually require drama. When being processed through Budapest’s customs, we weren’t able to discern a difference in any of the signs above the lines. However, clearly there was an indication somewhere to avoid the desk to which we went! The agent shooed us away and pointed to the sign above and the other lines, then spouted something off. Mind you at this time there were maybe nine people going through customs and there were eight lines. There was no crowd to follow so we hadn’t a clue his lane was apparently closed. We looked up at all the signs and said, "They're all the same?" He came out from the desk to gripe at us and point to all the other signs once again and shake his head at us. He walked away as he continued to mutter under his breathe about us. We still didn't understand but chose another agent’s desk. While in the tiny line we realized there was a small light that indicated if the desk was open. What's interesting, however, is that another desk didn't have the light on and the man behind it was helping people. At least this time we had no trouble with our flight!
When our international flight landed in Kiev, we had to be processed through Customs and Immigration to enter Ukraine. We then had to locate the airline for our in-country flight. We picked up our luggage and took it to be inspected. There was a weight limit (not unusual in the US, right?) and we were over the limit. We had no other choice but to pull out some items, leave them be, weigh in, and then stuff the items back in the luggage. This seemed first to be illegal and second to be unnecessary. But when in Rome, I mean Kiev...
Next up for us was the security check. We both tripped the alarm as we walked through the security machine (though we still aren't sure how). As a prize, we both earned a thorough pat down. This was becoming our new normal as well. The couple behind us also set off the alarm, too. The man was patted down; the woman looked at the male security dude asking him what she needed to do. She was a very well-built woman whose tight-fitting clothing were working overtime. She must have said something right because the security agent waved her on to which we were shocked. Wouldn't the security guard prefer to pat down of all people this voluptuous woman?
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As we awaited our second flight, we learned a group of 64 older British women were flying to a fund-raising concert at which they were scheduled to sing to raise money for one of the orphanages in Lviv. Adam shared that he had just returned from Lviv. They asked why we chose to visit Ukraine. Adam explained that he adored the Ukrainians he’d met and enjoyed the places he visited and wanted me to experience it, too. The Brits were smitten and serenaded him as we boarded.
Our first taxi experience in Lviv began with a driver who planned to hustle us. He quoted us a bogus foreigner rate. Adam called his bluff and we got out. We then Ubered. A little bit into our fare, we realized the Uber driver didn’t know English and we didn’t know Ukranian. We learned this in a rural, dark area when the driver pulled over. For a tense minute or five, we waited. Finally, the driver called someone on his phone who translated for us all. The driver clarified a question about our destination and we were back on our way.
Our Airbnb was perfectly situated in the city called Rynok Square. The entrance looked like a dungeon; the well-worn stairs creaked mercilessly. Side bar: Looking back I wish I had inquired of the property’s history. And boy if those walls could talk!
Although it was 11 pm when we arrived, we were hungry. Our search took us to Babylon. The atmosphere was warm and the food was good. We fell asleep watching Forrest Gump.
Our first taxi experience in Lviv began with a driver who planned to hustle us. He quoted us a bogus foreigner rate. Adam called his bluff and we got out. We then Ubered. A little bit into our fare, we realized the Uber driver didn’t know English and we didn’t know Ukranian. We learned this in a rural, dark area when the driver pulled over. For a tense minute or five, we waited. Finally, the driver called someone on his phone who translated for us all. The driver clarified a question about our destination and we were back on our way.
Our Airbnb was perfectly situated in the city called Rynok Square. The entrance looked like a dungeon; the well-worn stairs creaked mercilessly. Side bar: Looking back I wish I had inquired of the property’s history. And boy if those walls could talk!
Although it was 11 pm when we arrived, we were hungry. Our search took us to Babylon. The atmosphere was warm and the food was good. We fell asleep watching Forrest Gump.
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Day 7: Lviv
We rented a car since Adam was familiar with the area. Adam drove us to Stormberger, a restaurant that he frequented during his deployment. He used to tease the waitresses that the pancakes should be named after him. Well, friends, they renamed them! The Adam’s Pancakes are now on the English menu. They were yummy, too!
Our next stop was the city square. We visited the Lviv Chocolate Factory. Adam had ice cream and I had a sort of milkshake. Why sort of? The Ukrainian impression of a milk shake is a chilled flavored milk. My impression of a milk shake is ice cream blended with syrup and milk to a thick, creamy consistency. Adam remembered to tell me about the difference after I had drawn my first sip.
For lunch we went to The Bunker. This eating establishment was a hybrid dinner theater meets grill. To gain entry, visitors must knock upon the door and provide the password when prompted. If admission is granted, visitors down an obligatory shot of moonshine and then walk down the stairs. Now a dining hall, the bunker was formerly used by the Ukrainian Resistance for their strategy meetings as they fought against the Soviet occupiers. An older man who was bedecked in full military regalia kept watch over the crowd and occasionally fired blanks from his gun to liven the atmosphere. He fired shots twice while we were there. Once the bloom was off the rose, we looked around at the war memorabilia and took touristy selfies with an old machine gun on the rooftop. From that vantage point we were able to imagine how the city’s protectors must have observed the comings and goings. The place was clearly a nod to the Cold War era and a fascinating place to visit.
We found a market with many booths full of antique Soviet memorabilia. It was fun sifting through the merchandise and selecting souvenir items for friends and family back home. The exchange rate between the US dollar and the Ukrainian hryvnia was in our favor (1:26.37) which made bargain hunting more affordable.
We rented a car since Adam was familiar with the area. Adam drove us to Stormberger, a restaurant that he frequented during his deployment. He used to tease the waitresses that the pancakes should be named after him. Well, friends, they renamed them! The Adam’s Pancakes are now on the English menu. They were yummy, too!
Our next stop was the city square. We visited the Lviv Chocolate Factory. Adam had ice cream and I had a sort of milkshake. Why sort of? The Ukrainian impression of a milk shake is a chilled flavored milk. My impression of a milk shake is ice cream blended with syrup and milk to a thick, creamy consistency. Adam remembered to tell me about the difference after I had drawn my first sip.
For lunch we went to The Bunker. This eating establishment was a hybrid dinner theater meets grill. To gain entry, visitors must knock upon the door and provide the password when prompted. If admission is granted, visitors down an obligatory shot of moonshine and then walk down the stairs. Now a dining hall, the bunker was formerly used by the Ukrainian Resistance for their strategy meetings as they fought against the Soviet occupiers. An older man who was bedecked in full military regalia kept watch over the crowd and occasionally fired blanks from his gun to liven the atmosphere. He fired shots twice while we were there. Once the bloom was off the rose, we looked around at the war memorabilia and took touristy selfies with an old machine gun on the rooftop. From that vantage point we were able to imagine how the city’s protectors must have observed the comings and goings. The place was clearly a nod to the Cold War era and a fascinating place to visit.
We found a market with many booths full of antique Soviet memorabilia. It was fun sifting through the merchandise and selecting souvenir items for friends and family back home. The exchange rate between the US dollar and the Ukrainian hryvnia was in our favor (1:26.37) which made bargain hunting more affordable.
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Another of Adam’s places he wanted to share with me was the Lviv Coffee Mining Company. He knew a midday coffee would be a smart investment for our energy levels so planned a noon stop. The lower-level offered a “Flaming coffee.” The coffee is served sweetened and it is heated with a blowtorch right in front of customers' eyes. As we awaited our coffees to be brought to the table, Adam mentioned again that the blowtorch was coming. Sure enough, the barista arrived with an enormous blowtorch (probably another Soviet era relic!) and promptly opened the flame to scorch the sugar on the coffee’s surface. This was quite disconcerting to me as the flame wasn’t a mere flame but extended several feet across the table. It might have well been a flame thrower! I held perfectly still less I lose my eyebrows. How was the coffee? Stout but not as stout as the coffee in Cairo. However, it was the caffeine perk we needed as we started our evening.
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For dinner, we met up with a few of Adam’s Army buddies who were still on deployment for lunch at Adam’s favorite restaurant, Khinkkalnya, which features Georgian (country) food. I recognized some of the menu options as Adam had talked them into sharing their recipes with him so he could recreate his favorites when he returned home to the US. Not only had they shared recipes, they taught him to make their dumplings (he has photographic proof). I knew the restaurant staff held Adam in high regard but had no idea just how high. When we walked through the door, you would have thought they’d not seen him in years while in truth it had been just a couple of weeks. They just didn’t expect to likely see him ever again after his deployment ended. Their reaction to his return was super cute. While the food was not my favorite, I surely enjoyed their enjoying him – and us.
The Army buddies weren’t due back on base just yet so we headed to one more spot: a rooftop restaurant from which you could see the full expanse of the city. One of the soldiers shared that he had moved to the US from Ukraine as a teen; he was able to point out points of interest to us as well as shared some regional and city history with us. A Ukrainian linguist attached to the unit came out to visit with us. This was a real treat as she had added me on Instagram while Adam was deployed in Ukraine working with her. She had a gift for me (oops, I was ill prepared!). How sweet it was to meet someone who was pivotal in my hubby’s life while he was here.
The Army buddies weren’t due back on base just yet so we headed to one more spot: a rooftop restaurant from which you could see the full expanse of the city. One of the soldiers shared that he had moved to the US from Ukraine as a teen; he was able to point out points of interest to us as well as shared some regional and city history with us. A Ukrainian linguist attached to the unit came out to visit with us. This was a real treat as she had added me on Instagram while Adam was deployed in Ukraine working with her. She had a gift for me (oops, I was ill prepared!). How sweet it was to meet someone who was pivotal in my hubby’s life while he was here.
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Day 8: Lviv and the countryside
We castle-hopped on this day. The countryside is very pretty with fields and fields of sunflowers.
First, we toured Olesko Castle. Built in the early 1300s, early records indicate the castle was given to a bishop in 1327 as a gift from Pope Boniface IX. At some point it transitioned to a defense station. In the 1400s it was established as a get-away for the aristocracy. Battle for ownership carried on for centuries. Prior to its Ukraine ownership, the castle was owned by Poland, Lithuania, and Hungary. An 1838 earthquake destroyed portions of it. Additionally, it sustained damage during both WWI and WWII. It was damaged further in 1956 after a lightning strike. Today it is a museum with a plethora of creepy statues and paintings. The castle includes a restaurant which was convenient for us as our tour ended at lunch time.
We castle-hopped on this day. The countryside is very pretty with fields and fields of sunflowers.
First, we toured Olesko Castle. Built in the early 1300s, early records indicate the castle was given to a bishop in 1327 as a gift from Pope Boniface IX. At some point it transitioned to a defense station. In the 1400s it was established as a get-away for the aristocracy. Battle for ownership carried on for centuries. Prior to its Ukraine ownership, the castle was owned by Poland, Lithuania, and Hungary. An 1838 earthquake destroyed portions of it. Additionally, it sustained damage during both WWI and WWII. It was damaged further in 1956 after a lightning strike. Today it is a museum with a plethora of creepy statues and paintings. The castle includes a restaurant which was convenient for us as our tour ended at lunch time.
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The second property of note was the Pidhirsti Castle. Built in the 1600s as a residential fortress for the king, Pidhirsti was originally part of Poland. It withstood attacks by Ukrainians, Tatars, and Turks. The royal ownership shifted on numerous occasions as borders changed. The shifting borders resulted in it being declared within Austria for a while. During WWI it was captured by the Russians who looted what they could and tried to destroy everything else. The castle was heavily damaged during the Polish-Soviet War and became part of Poland when the border changed. In 1939 when the Nazis invaded Poland, it fell under Nazi control. Photos of its Nazi occupation can be seen in the museum located adjacent to the castle. After WWII, Pidhirsti was used as a sanitarium for those inflicted with Tuberculosis. A fire in 1956 resulted in catastrophic damage. The Lviv Gallery of Painting purchased Pidhirsti in 1997 but renovations were very slow. We were not able to tour this property directly. The poor condition was clearly visible to those of us at the museum.
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We were accompanied to dinner at Mon Pius by a few of Adam’s favorite linguists Uli, Ilona, and Anthony. They travelled a considerable distance to join us and we were touched by their eagerness to do so. It was easy to see why Adam was fond of their friendship. It took no time before I was accepted into the goofy family. We all keep up with one another via social media and hope that our friendships continue.
Sidebar: All around Lviv were remnants of Soviet rule. The influence of Communism on the buildings was visible as they all looked alike. Drab color. Basic features. It was apparent in the days since the rise in democracy that the locals were trying to express themselves with personalization of their properties. Many of the streets were still cobblestone. The poverty was apparent but the resiliency was also visible. The mall in Lviv was nice and a few new, contemporary apartment buildings were under construction. While most cars were old, we encountered new cars on the roads. Although the country witnessed many hardships, the pride in their country was evident. I was touched by how much effort they made to dress nicely and to be well-groomed. It wasn’t a typical tourism hotspot and the language barrier was difficult. Yet the character and charm in the shops and cafes won my heart. The people of Ukraine endured so much over the course of its history. And it still struggles today to retain its autonomy and way of life independent of its neighbor to the east. I truly hope for the best for these people.
The next leg of our journey began at midnight so we didn’t go to sleep this night. We packed, taxied to the bus station and were off! We’d be in Poland in six hours.
Sidebar: All around Lviv were remnants of Soviet rule. The influence of Communism on the buildings was visible as they all looked alike. Drab color. Basic features. It was apparent in the days since the rise in democracy that the locals were trying to express themselves with personalization of their properties. Many of the streets were still cobblestone. The poverty was apparent but the resiliency was also visible. The mall in Lviv was nice and a few new, contemporary apartment buildings were under construction. While most cars were old, we encountered new cars on the roads. Although the country witnessed many hardships, the pride in their country was evident. I was touched by how much effort they made to dress nicely and to be well-groomed. It wasn’t a typical tourism hotspot and the language barrier was difficult. Yet the character and charm in the shops and cafes won my heart. The people of Ukraine endured so much over the course of its history. And it still struggles today to retain its autonomy and way of life independent of its neighbor to the east. I truly hope for the best for these people.
The next leg of our journey began at midnight so we didn’t go to sleep this night. We packed, taxied to the bus station and were off! We’d be in Poland in six hours.
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Day 9: Lviv and Krakow
We don’t get to travel the world because we are loaded. Nope, we are thrifty when we can be. That’s why we decided to take the bus to Poland. We could snooze, watch the sunrise, and arrive in time for an early breakfast. Sometimes even the best laid plans don’t work out!
First and foremost, bus travel usually doesn’t include assigned seats. This was true in Ukraine. All courtesy disappeared when the bus door opened and the throng of passengers rushed on to grab a seat. If you can imagine a cartoon scene where Charlie Brown and PigPen are left behind in a cloud of dust while everyone else scurries along, that was us. We made our way to the only two seats we found and they were not together. The language barrier made it impossible for us to speak with the seat-mates we were eyeing. I was calculating which of the strangers I’d prefer to sleep against when the bus driver directed one of the passengers to change seats freeing up for Adam and me two seats side-by-side. I was so grateful!
This was the first challenge of many on this leg of our journey. It wasn’t long into our ride that I discovered the bus’s restroom on the bus was inoperable. In fact, it wasn’t really inoperable so much as it was not really a restroom after all but a storage closet! Yikes! The bus traveled at a swift pace and the rhythm of the ride lulled Adam to sleep. How does he do that?!! The teens on the bus were noisy, squealing, making animal noises, being all sorts of raucous. Since it’s apparent I didn’t speak their language I couldn’t exactly ask them to be quiet (I was shocked no one else had); I opted to use my evil teacher eye which worked! An hour or so in, we arrived at our border check point on the Poland border. We’re thinking, “Eh, we got this.” Oh, where we wrong! The only good thing about the border checkpoint was it's restroom facility.
We don’t get to travel the world because we are loaded. Nope, we are thrifty when we can be. That’s why we decided to take the bus to Poland. We could snooze, watch the sunrise, and arrive in time for an early breakfast. Sometimes even the best laid plans don’t work out!
First and foremost, bus travel usually doesn’t include assigned seats. This was true in Ukraine. All courtesy disappeared when the bus door opened and the throng of passengers rushed on to grab a seat. If you can imagine a cartoon scene where Charlie Brown and PigPen are left behind in a cloud of dust while everyone else scurries along, that was us. We made our way to the only two seats we found and they were not together. The language barrier made it impossible for us to speak with the seat-mates we were eyeing. I was calculating which of the strangers I’d prefer to sleep against when the bus driver directed one of the passengers to change seats freeing up for Adam and me two seats side-by-side. I was so grateful!
This was the first challenge of many on this leg of our journey. It wasn’t long into our ride that I discovered the bus’s restroom on the bus was inoperable. In fact, it wasn’t really inoperable so much as it was not really a restroom after all but a storage closet! Yikes! The bus traveled at a swift pace and the rhythm of the ride lulled Adam to sleep. How does he do that?!! The teens on the bus were noisy, squealing, making animal noises, being all sorts of raucous. Since it’s apparent I didn’t speak their language I couldn’t exactly ask them to be quiet (I was shocked no one else had); I opted to use my evil teacher eye which worked! An hour or so in, we arrived at our border check point on the Poland border. We’re thinking, “Eh, we got this.” Oh, where we wrong! The only good thing about the border checkpoint was it's restroom facility.
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I looked forward to the sunrise when planning this leg. But around 5 a.m. when the sun began to rise, the passengers awakened and began grumbling and the teens grew noisy one again. I cranked up the white noise app on my phone to drown out what I could. We boarded the bus once more and waited. A border patrol agent came aboard the bus and signaled the passengers to produce their passports. One by one, he stood in the aisle, took the passport from the passenger, and in painstaking detail studied the pages of the passport and then glared at the person comparing the photo to the person before him. He labored over our passports, of course. He was particularly interested in Adam’s and reviewed the many stamps showing Adam’s travels over the last few years. Sidebar: Adam had been to Afghanistan, Germany, Russia, Iraq, and many more.
Once the border patrol agent had finished, he exited the bus without fanfare. We waited. The bus lurched forward and stopped again. We waited some more. In total, the bus waited three hours before the signal light turned green giving the driver permission to cross into Poland.
At least while we were stuck at the border we were able to get on and off the bus. Chain smokers got their tobacco fix. The teens burned off energy playing between the buses in the noxious muffler exhaust. At least I had could find a restroom. The women’s restroom was out of order so I paid to use the men’s restroom which was beyond nasty. Eventually the passengers all settled back to their slumber. Everyone except me. Snoring. Bad breath. Flatulence (no, not mine). Yes, that’s how I remembered this leg of this trip.
Once the border patrol agent had finished, he exited the bus without fanfare. We waited. The bus lurched forward and stopped again. We waited some more. In total, the bus waited three hours before the signal light turned green giving the driver permission to cross into Poland.
At least while we were stuck at the border we were able to get on and off the bus. Chain smokers got their tobacco fix. The teens burned off energy playing between the buses in the noxious muffler exhaust. At least I had could find a restroom. The women’s restroom was out of order so I paid to use the men’s restroom which was beyond nasty. Eventually the passengers all settled back to their slumber. Everyone except me. Snoring. Bad breath. Flatulence (no, not mine). Yes, that’s how I remembered this leg of this trip.
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When the bus began rolling again to enter into Poland we arrived at the Polish check point with security. This time we were required to exit the bus and stand in a line with our passports. It was another slow process. Just as the agent was at the last person (a female), the agent spoke. We didn’t understand what was being said but the agent’s tone and body language indicated it was a very serious subject. He had decided to detain the female passenger. I really wished I could have understood what she had done incorrectly and then learned what would happen with her next.
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We reboarded again. Yet the agents were not finished. Two boarded the bus to conduct another passport inspection even though they just completed one moments before as we stood outside the bus. A third agent rifled through the carry-on bags while a fourth agent could be heard in the stow area below the bus’s floor likely inspecting the checked baggage. In total, we were delayed four hours at the border. We learned that our time was shorter than most delays and that the delays are frequently ten hours long. Let me add that we appreciate security; after all, Adam is part of the nation’s security team. But we also appreciate efficiency. And clean toilets.
The bus ride continued. The sun was fully risen. My beleaguered brain needed sleep. Just as I was dozing the teens grew even more rambunctious. Their music devices seemed stuck on repeat and played one song over and over. Adam swatted at their seat and with a stern voice told them to stop. Regardless of that language barrier, they knew what he said and thankfully obeyed orders.
The bus ride continued. The sun was fully risen. My beleaguered brain needed sleep. Just as I was dozing the teens grew even more rambunctious. Their music devices seemed stuck on repeat and played one song over and over. Adam swatted at their seat and with a stern voice told them to stop. Regardless of that language barrier, they knew what he said and thankfully obeyed orders.
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F-i-n-a-l-l-y after nine hours we made it to the bus stop. I was so happy to be off that bus. The general reception in Poland wasn’t the rock star treatment we often encountered. They were the opposite. Suspicious. We were uncomfortable. My heart hurt as I thought of the Jews and WWII prisoners who often stepped onto a platform into the judgmental stares of others. I knew my treatment wasn’t at all like their experiences, but it was an eye opener for me.
We taxied to our Airbnb in Krakow. It was super nice and clean and a perfect antidote to our last several hours. We refreshed and napped and then set off on our Polish adventure. Our tour guide for the day was one of Adam’s deployment friends, Malwina, whose home was in Krakow. We visited the Old Town Square first. The square was the political center of Poland from 1038 to 1596 and is now on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Just down the road we found the Main Square. Locals and tourists swarm the area which is comprised of both very old and modern buildings as well as many historic homes, churches, and the market. We stopped at one of the many restaurants that line the square for a quick snack and bought some souvenirs at the market. People young and old enjoyed themselves on that peaceful day as we made our way to Wawel Castle. The castle was built sometime before the 14th century and had been the home of royalty. Like the castles in Ukraine, Wawel experienced violent attacks and was heavily damaged. Since WWII, Wawel has served as the national museum. Unlike a lot of European cities, Krakow wasn’t completely destroyed during WWII nor the Soviet occupation.
Our guide’s husband joined us for dinner at a restaurant that was regarded as a local favorite for traditional Polish foods. The food was wonderful – who doesn’t like pierogis?! We enjoyed their company so much and were feeling so heady that we continued our visits by pub hopping and comparing our national lifestyles. Fun fact: We remain in contact with several of our international friends including this couple via social media; we hope to see them again.
We taxied to our Airbnb in Krakow. It was super nice and clean and a perfect antidote to our last several hours. We refreshed and napped and then set off on our Polish adventure. Our tour guide for the day was one of Adam’s deployment friends, Malwina, whose home was in Krakow. We visited the Old Town Square first. The square was the political center of Poland from 1038 to 1596 and is now on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Just down the road we found the Main Square. Locals and tourists swarm the area which is comprised of both very old and modern buildings as well as many historic homes, churches, and the market. We stopped at one of the many restaurants that line the square for a quick snack and bought some souvenirs at the market. People young and old enjoyed themselves on that peaceful day as we made our way to Wawel Castle. The castle was built sometime before the 14th century and had been the home of royalty. Like the castles in Ukraine, Wawel experienced violent attacks and was heavily damaged. Since WWII, Wawel has served as the national museum. Unlike a lot of European cities, Krakow wasn’t completely destroyed during WWII nor the Soviet occupation.
Our guide’s husband joined us for dinner at a restaurant that was regarded as a local favorite for traditional Polish foods. The food was wonderful – who doesn’t like pierogis?! We enjoyed their company so much and were feeling so heady that we continued our visits by pub hopping and comparing our national lifestyles. Fun fact: We remain in contact with several of our international friends including this couple via social media; we hope to see them again.
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Day 10: Krakow
Our first full day in Poland was somber. As a historian, I was compelled to pay my respects to the Holocaust victims. We visited Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II—Birkenau. Much of the content in my first three years as a teacher was focused upon the Holocaust. Walking through the iron-gated entrance and under the famed arch “Arbeit Macht Frei” ("Work Sets You Free") was chilling. So many entered the camp and passed beneath those exact words never to be seen or heard from again. The shooting wall. The area in the camp where public executions took place. The area where bodies were left to publicly rot as a means of intimidation. The piles of personal possessions confiscated from the prisoners. The gas chambers. The crematorium. The prison. The Zyclon B canisters. It is impossible to articulate the emotions I experienced. Even as I write this journal and some time has elapsed, the feeling in my gut returns and my heart feels heavy.
The ride to our next location was somber. We needed the downtime for reflection. Our next stop was the Wieliczka Salt Mine. The mine began operations in the 13th century and ceased just a few years ago in 2007! The national monument includes statues and chapels carved inside the cavern. Tours are available which permitted me to see the underground lake inside the cavern and to engage in the obligatory “lick of a salt wall." Since it was in existence for such a long time, many famous people have visited the mine – people like Nicolaus Copernicus, the man who determined that the earth revolved around the sun! The Nazis were converting a section of the mine to be used as a Jewish work camp in which armaments (weapons) were to be made. The Soviet invasion, however, occurred before this plan was brought to fruition. It is now on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Our first full day in Poland was somber. As a historian, I was compelled to pay my respects to the Holocaust victims. We visited Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II—Birkenau. Much of the content in my first three years as a teacher was focused upon the Holocaust. Walking through the iron-gated entrance and under the famed arch “Arbeit Macht Frei” ("Work Sets You Free") was chilling. So many entered the camp and passed beneath those exact words never to be seen or heard from again. The shooting wall. The area in the camp where public executions took place. The area where bodies were left to publicly rot as a means of intimidation. The piles of personal possessions confiscated from the prisoners. The gas chambers. The crematorium. The prison. The Zyclon B canisters. It is impossible to articulate the emotions I experienced. Even as I write this journal and some time has elapsed, the feeling in my gut returns and my heart feels heavy.
The ride to our next location was somber. We needed the downtime for reflection. Our next stop was the Wieliczka Salt Mine. The mine began operations in the 13th century and ceased just a few years ago in 2007! The national monument includes statues and chapels carved inside the cavern. Tours are available which permitted me to see the underground lake inside the cavern and to engage in the obligatory “lick of a salt wall." Since it was in existence for such a long time, many famous people have visited the mine – people like Nicolaus Copernicus, the man who determined that the earth revolved around the sun! The Nazis were converting a section of the mine to be used as a Jewish work camp in which armaments (weapons) were to be made. The Soviet invasion, however, occurred before this plan was brought to fruition. It is now on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
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As if the emotional heaviness weren’t enough, we ended the day with a quick visit to Oskar Schindler’s factory. Schindler was a German industrialist and a member of the Nazi party who employed 1,200 Jews during WWII. His employment saved them from deportation to hard labor or death camps. We weren’t able to access the factory but the visual presence of the factory itself was sufficient. It reinvigorated my appreciation of Schindler and other resisters.
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While we walked around the square weighing our dinner options, a bird pooped on me. It was funny sort of – such a small inconvenience compared to what millions of others had experienced nearby. As you’ve learned by now, I travel well-prepared and had my wipies with me. We found a restaurant that had no wait time (yay, we would be able to rest soon!) but laughed once we’d settled in place at our table. The décor was Wild Wild West – as in the American wild west – as in very much what we see at home in Oklahoma. A US Flag was pinned to the wall. A Native American motto was also on the wall. We felt at home, humored, and were reminded just how small the world really is.
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Day 11: Krakow and Prague
We intended to take another bus to get to Prague but I was battle-scarred! Adam instead rented a car which enabled us to drive through the Polish and Czech countryside. What a smart decision! It cost us a little more in the long run but the experience was delightful. Fun fact: I’m only a mama to our fur babies but as the saying goes… if mama ain’t happy, ain’t nobody happy. I was happy. Adam was happy. It was a lovely ride to Prague.
Our Prague Airbnb was clean and comfy. We checked in and were on our way exploring. We crossed on foot one of the 17 bridges over the Vltava River. We wondered if there was a national paddle-boat festival because there were so many on the water. We saw the majestic Prague Castle across the river on a hillside. The beauty of the scene wasn’t wasted on us as we selected our dinner venue so that we could eat outdoors in plain view of the castle. And what a spectacular sunset greeted us! Ooooowee! Beautiful! I retired to our room not too long after while Adam explored and made friends.
We intended to take another bus to get to Prague but I was battle-scarred! Adam instead rented a car which enabled us to drive through the Polish and Czech countryside. What a smart decision! It cost us a little more in the long run but the experience was delightful. Fun fact: I’m only a mama to our fur babies but as the saying goes… if mama ain’t happy, ain’t nobody happy. I was happy. Adam was happy. It was a lovely ride to Prague.
Our Prague Airbnb was clean and comfy. We checked in and were on our way exploring. We crossed on foot one of the 17 bridges over the Vltava River. We wondered if there was a national paddle-boat festival because there were so many on the water. We saw the majestic Prague Castle across the river on a hillside. The beauty of the scene wasn’t wasted on us as we selected our dinner venue so that we could eat outdoors in plain view of the castle. And what a spectacular sunset greeted us! Ooooowee! Beautiful! I retired to our room not too long after while Adam explored and made friends.
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Day 12: Prague
Touring via scooter rental is the recommended mode and who were we to disagree. Scooters made maneuvering and parking a snap. And the two of us could easily ride together on a single scooter. We “scooted” up to Prague Castle, parked, and explored on foot. Construction of the castle – the largest ancient castle in the world -- began in the 9th century. We knew we hadn’t the time needed to explore the entire castle and the line was super long. Luckily, sections are free to the public so we mapped our plan and set out to explore.
One open section was Saint Vitus Cathedral. It’s Gothic architecture on the outside did not prepare me for the gorgeous stained-glass windows on the inside. Of all the churches I’ve seen around the world, this cathedral’s range of colors was the widest-ranging color pallet I had seen. Within the castle are the tombs of numerous Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors but we didn’t know this until after we left. And the best place to capture a photo of Prague was from the castle grounds.
Next up was Old Town Market. We bought our souvenirs here and enjoyed lunch. We observed courtship Prague-style while having lunch. A very young couple both adorned in orthodontics (braces!) who couldn’t have been more than 15 were on a date. The boy was drinking a beer. Yes, this was Europe. But it still was odd to watch.
Touring via scooter rental is the recommended mode and who were we to disagree. Scooters made maneuvering and parking a snap. And the two of us could easily ride together on a single scooter. We “scooted” up to Prague Castle, parked, and explored on foot. Construction of the castle – the largest ancient castle in the world -- began in the 9th century. We knew we hadn’t the time needed to explore the entire castle and the line was super long. Luckily, sections are free to the public so we mapped our plan and set out to explore.
One open section was Saint Vitus Cathedral. It’s Gothic architecture on the outside did not prepare me for the gorgeous stained-glass windows on the inside. Of all the churches I’ve seen around the world, this cathedral’s range of colors was the widest-ranging color pallet I had seen. Within the castle are the tombs of numerous Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors but we didn’t know this until after we left. And the best place to capture a photo of Prague was from the castle grounds.
Next up was Old Town Market. We bought our souvenirs here and enjoyed lunch. We observed courtship Prague-style while having lunch. A very young couple both adorned in orthodontics (braces!) who couldn’t have been more than 15 were on a date. The boy was drinking a beer. Yes, this was Europe. But it still was odd to watch.
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We were craving some leisurely museum time so headed to the Museum of Communism. Many of the exhibits described brainwashing tactics used on the Czech citizens and the story behind the country's defeat of communism. A nearby military antique shop caught our eye and we were in nerd heaven. An unexpected hiccup occurred with our Airbnb that required us to change locations but we managed to find a hotel and get settled.
We returned to sightseeing and happened upon the John Lennon Wall. The wall was begun as a structure upon which wall young Czechs wrote grievances during communist control back in 1988. The movement came to be known as Lennonism and the wall a representation of the call for love and peace.
Our bucket list item in Prague was the medieval astrological clock in the Old Town Square. Sadly, the clock was covered up for repair. At least the square was lovely. After dinner, we were lured into a Thai massage parlor also located on the square. As my blog about Thailand and massages pointed out, I was greatly impressed so had high – but guarded – hopes of a do over. Traditional Thai massages include stretching and bending into a variety of positions and looks painful and massages are down in full view of passersby. At this Prague location, the set-up was just the same! The young male masseuse was strong but I’m a tough cookie. I was amused by the expressions on the people glancing through the window at me. By the time it ended, his sweaty hands had broken every knot in my tired body.
We returned to sightseeing and happened upon the John Lennon Wall. The wall was begun as a structure upon which wall young Czechs wrote grievances during communist control back in 1988. The movement came to be known as Lennonism and the wall a representation of the call for love and peace.
Our bucket list item in Prague was the medieval astrological clock in the Old Town Square. Sadly, the clock was covered up for repair. At least the square was lovely. After dinner, we were lured into a Thai massage parlor also located on the square. As my blog about Thailand and massages pointed out, I was greatly impressed so had high – but guarded – hopes of a do over. Traditional Thai massages include stretching and bending into a variety of positions and looks painful and massages are down in full view of passersby. At this Prague location, the set-up was just the same! The young male masseuse was strong but I’m a tough cookie. I was amused by the expressions on the people glancing through the window at me. By the time it ended, his sweaty hands had broken every knot in my tired body.
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Day 13: Prague and Lisbon
On our last morning in Prague we scooted to the KGB Museum. This museum featured spy equipment and weaponry used by the Soviets and the Germans. Our docent was a flamboyant, patriotic Russian; he put on a terrific show. At one point he handed me two knives that had actually been used... I wasn't sure how I was supposed to respond.
We noticed a random wall on the hillside and moved closer to inspect it. We weren’t able to ascertain what it was while there. However, once I had time to do my own research I learned it was called the Hunger Wall and built in the 1360s as part of the medieval defense wall for the city. Like most old structures in areas that have seen conflict, it has been damaged and restored a few times. As to its name, there is no conclusive explanation.
We stopped at the Memorial to the Victims of Communism (1948 to 1989). The memorial is comprised of seven bronze figures on a flight of stairs. Statues to the back of the exhibit were purposely created to show levels of loss and decay – just as the political prisoners were broken down and destroyed. The plaque beside the memorial reads, "The memorial to the victims of communism is dedicated to all victims not only those who were jailed or executed but also those whose lives were ruined by totalitarian despotism." An estimated 205,486 Czechs were arrested, 170,938 forced into exile, 4,500 died in prison, 327 were shot trying to escape, and 248 were executed.
On our last morning in Prague we scooted to the KGB Museum. This museum featured spy equipment and weaponry used by the Soviets and the Germans. Our docent was a flamboyant, patriotic Russian; he put on a terrific show. At one point he handed me two knives that had actually been used... I wasn't sure how I was supposed to respond.
We noticed a random wall on the hillside and moved closer to inspect it. We weren’t able to ascertain what it was while there. However, once I had time to do my own research I learned it was called the Hunger Wall and built in the 1360s as part of the medieval defense wall for the city. Like most old structures in areas that have seen conflict, it has been damaged and restored a few times. As to its name, there is no conclusive explanation.
We stopped at the Memorial to the Victims of Communism (1948 to 1989). The memorial is comprised of seven bronze figures on a flight of stairs. Statues to the back of the exhibit were purposely created to show levels of loss and decay – just as the political prisoners were broken down and destroyed. The plaque beside the memorial reads, "The memorial to the victims of communism is dedicated to all victims not only those who were jailed or executed but also those whose lives were ruined by totalitarian despotism." An estimated 205,486 Czechs were arrested, 170,938 forced into exile, 4,500 died in prison, 327 were shot trying to escape, and 248 were executed.
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We returned our scooter and crossed back over the Vltava River by walking over the Charles Bridge. Artists were busy at work painting and selling their pieces. Musicians played a variety of instruments and sang. Tourists basked in the ambience. Some 30 statues Catholic saints of were on display.
Our final experience in Prague was the Museum of Medieval Torture. For instance, machines that were used to pull a person into two! I hurt inside just looking at all the torture devices. I can’t imagine the misery those subjected to the devices felt. I can’t imagine watching these tortures played out in public forums either! Bleh. Bleh. Bleh.
We had no problems at the airport for our afternoon flight from Prague to Lisbon. Although we didn’t have a planned stay in Lisbon, we had a sixteen-hour layover. We booked a hotel close to the airport so we could freshen up and nap if needed. We didn’t realize we could actually walk to it from the airport which was really nice. You don’t have to tell us twice that we have time to see something interesting.
Our final experience in Prague was the Museum of Medieval Torture. For instance, machines that were used to pull a person into two! I hurt inside just looking at all the torture devices. I can’t imagine the misery those subjected to the devices felt. I can’t imagine watching these tortures played out in public forums either! Bleh. Bleh. Bleh.
We had no problems at the airport for our afternoon flight from Prague to Lisbon. Although we didn’t have a planned stay in Lisbon, we had a sixteen-hour layover. We booked a hotel close to the airport so we could freshen up and nap if needed. We didn’t realize we could actually walk to it from the airport which was really nice. You don’t have to tell us twice that we have time to see something interesting.
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Lisbon is regarded as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities – especially at night. We taxied into the city and were dropped off at Commerce Square. Lisbon is a port city on the Tagus River; maritime commerce plays a crucial role in the city and region’s economy. An earthquake followed by a tsunami and a fire destroyed most of the city in 1755. The square was rebuilt and named Commerce Square as a reminder to that which stimulates the economy.
Believe it or not, our first experience with being offered drugs occurred here. And in the span of about one hour, we were approached by three different people who had drugs to sell. Of course, we said no to drugs – and yes to codfish cheeseballs. We didn’t have an opinion about the food one way or another but we figured the long line of people waiting to order was a good sign. Now we were ravenously hungry. We knew we had a long flight ahead and we wanted our tummies to be full. Next up, ravioli! This one missed the mark, however, as the ravioli was equivalent to something out of a can and wasn’t even warmed. We walked around a little more, bought some souvenirs, and decided to hit the hay.
Believe it or not, our first experience with being offered drugs occurred here. And in the span of about one hour, we were approached by three different people who had drugs to sell. Of course, we said no to drugs – and yes to codfish cheeseballs. We didn’t have an opinion about the food one way or another but we figured the long line of people waiting to order was a good sign. Now we were ravenously hungry. We knew we had a long flight ahead and we wanted our tummies to be full. Next up, ravioli! This one missed the mark, however, as the ravioli was equivalent to something out of a can and wasn’t even warmed. We walked around a little more, bought some souvenirs, and decided to hit the hay.
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Day 14: Portugal to the US
After about a five-hour nap, we were ready to roll. It was our very last day of the trip but we awoke super early to experience a little more of Lisbon. We took some obligatory photos with the Sanctuary of Christ the King (a mini version of the statue of Jesus in Rio) and the 25 de Abril Bridge (a mini version of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco). We found a weathered old shipping dock that reminded me of the lessons I taught about the Age of Exploration and Portugal being the pioneer for it.
Sidebar: Spanish-style tiles adorned many of the buildings and most of the sidewalks. It was absolutely beautiful. I loved it!
Next up was Castelo de Sao Jorge a medieval castle built in the 11th century. It is believed that the first fortification was built in 48 BC when the Romans had control of the area! The area has been controlled by numerous kingdoms and the castle has been used for a number of different reasons including as a palace residence, a hospital, a prison, and a school. We were just the third couple in line when we arrived. We knew we were in a time crunch and managed to hustle our way through it in about 30 minutes going up stairs, viewing the museum exhibits, and sneaking a peak at the spectacular view of Lisbon.
After about a five-hour nap, we were ready to roll. It was our very last day of the trip but we awoke super early to experience a little more of Lisbon. We took some obligatory photos with the Sanctuary of Christ the King (a mini version of the statue of Jesus in Rio) and the 25 de Abril Bridge (a mini version of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco). We found a weathered old shipping dock that reminded me of the lessons I taught about the Age of Exploration and Portugal being the pioneer for it.
Sidebar: Spanish-style tiles adorned many of the buildings and most of the sidewalks. It was absolutely beautiful. I loved it!
Next up was Castelo de Sao Jorge a medieval castle built in the 11th century. It is believed that the first fortification was built in 48 BC when the Romans had control of the area! The area has been controlled by numerous kingdoms and the castle has been used for a number of different reasons including as a palace residence, a hospital, a prison, and a school. We were just the third couple in line when we arrived. We knew we were in a time crunch and managed to hustle our way through it in about 30 minutes going up stairs, viewing the museum exhibits, and sneaking a peak at the spectacular view of Lisbon.
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We visited Lisbon Cathedral – most often called simply Sé -- whose construction began in 1147 which was the same year Lisbon was recaptured from the Moors.The magnificent Romanesque structure was damaged in the 1775 earthquake was restored. The body of Saint Vincent of Saragossa the Patron Saint of Lisbon was entombed at the Cathedral. We lit a prayer candle as usual and were on our way.
We passed by the Aljube Museum, formerly a prison from 1926 to 1974. Those imprisoned here were the people who fought and risked their lives against the dictator ruler of the period. We were out of time now and needed to get to the airport. We were disappointed that we had such little time in Lisbon. So, as we planned our Summer 2018 trip, we planned another visit with a Lisbon layover! Seriously, we are looking forward to the layover!
We passed by the Aljube Museum, formerly a prison from 1926 to 1974. Those imprisoned here were the people who fought and risked their lives against the dictator ruler of the period. We were out of time now and needed to get to the airport. We were disappointed that we had such little time in Lisbon. So, as we planned our Summer 2018 trip, we planned another visit with a Lisbon layover! Seriously, we are looking forward to the layover!
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Luckily, our airport experience was uneventful. We were surprised by a store in the terminal that sold only sardines. We later learned that sardines are a delicacy in Portugal, but what a smelly thing to sell at an airport! TAP Air makes passengers go through another security check before boarding the plane. This took a million years as always but thankfully I got to keep my water. Woohoo!
Sidebars: We’ve travelled enough to know a thing of two about air travel. I can’t begin to mention all the airports we’ve encountered in the US, but combined with our airport experience in Amman, Cairo, Budapest, Kiev, Lviv, Prague, and Lisbon, along with all of our other international travels, I am bewildered that there are not more efficient, universal methods for handling security, customs, and immigration. Compounded by the language barriers over travelers, it’s a recipe for disaster!
It's not uncommon to hear a familiar pop tune every now and then. But somewhere while we were visiting Egypt and Eastern Europe we realized that we were hearing Luis Fonis's "Despacito" far more than expected. In fact, we'd heard it at every stop. To top that off, while in Poland we noticed a newspaper's headline "Despacito epidemia." So just as smells can transport us back in time, this song now does it for us every time we hear it.
Adam and I are serious competitors. The slug bug game is one of our sports. You know the drill: whomever spots a VW beetle first announces (usually with gusto though the location might dictate a little more reservation with the pronouncement!) "slug bug" and then delivers a smack of some sort to the bicep of the other. I might as well have been conducting research because let me tell you, we saw more slug bugs in Europe than I knew existed! So many beetles! Egypt was the only country in which we didn't see any. For the record, I won in every country. I also won in Asia. I think I am the unofficial world slug-bug champion.
All good things must end. Such is true of vacations. We were tired and had to return to our jobs. This entire trip was phenomenal but it was time to get home. I hadn’t yet allowed Adam to see our puppies after the deployment as I didn’t want to confuse them for two hours before leaving the country again so we were giddy to be home and see their response to his return.
If you’re taking notes, note this: Have your passport ready at all times. You never know what adventure might land at your feet!
Sidebars: We’ve travelled enough to know a thing of two about air travel. I can’t begin to mention all the airports we’ve encountered in the US, but combined with our airport experience in Amman, Cairo, Budapest, Kiev, Lviv, Prague, and Lisbon, along with all of our other international travels, I am bewildered that there are not more efficient, universal methods for handling security, customs, and immigration. Compounded by the language barriers over travelers, it’s a recipe for disaster!
It's not uncommon to hear a familiar pop tune every now and then. But somewhere while we were visiting Egypt and Eastern Europe we realized that we were hearing Luis Fonis's "Despacito" far more than expected. In fact, we'd heard it at every stop. To top that off, while in Poland we noticed a newspaper's headline "Despacito epidemia." So just as smells can transport us back in time, this song now does it for us every time we hear it.
Adam and I are serious competitors. The slug bug game is one of our sports. You know the drill: whomever spots a VW beetle first announces (usually with gusto though the location might dictate a little more reservation with the pronouncement!) "slug bug" and then delivers a smack of some sort to the bicep of the other. I might as well have been conducting research because let me tell you, we saw more slug bugs in Europe than I knew existed! So many beetles! Egypt was the only country in which we didn't see any. For the record, I won in every country. I also won in Asia. I think I am the unofficial world slug-bug champion.
All good things must end. Such is true of vacations. We were tired and had to return to our jobs. This entire trip was phenomenal but it was time to get home. I hadn’t yet allowed Adam to see our puppies after the deployment as I didn’t want to confuse them for two hours before leaving the country again so we were giddy to be home and see their response to his return.
If you’re taking notes, note this: Have your passport ready at all times. You never know what adventure might land at your feet!
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