Thailand & China
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Touring China and Thailand was going to be a new and different challenge. Not only was spoken language expected to be a challenge, but written language (think signs, menus, etc.) would be as well. In Europe, we could make out many of the words we saw in print because they aligned with root words we’d learned in school. Asian languages and the many different manners of written language were going to be tricky! Even though we’d learned in Western Europe that paying for a package tour wasn’t always smart, this situation was going to be difficult without bonafide guides to help so we booked a full package tour with Affordable Asia.
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Day 1: Beijing and Bangkok
We hopscotched around the world before landing in Beijing for a really long layover – nearly 24 hours. We exited the airport to do a bit of sightseeing but immediately encountered language issues. Our translator apps weren’t working well and the wifi was virtually nonexistent. We returned to the airport to wait for the next flight. We took comfort knowing it would be different as soon as we met up with our tour group. But spending an entire day in an airport was miserable!
If the eyes are the window to the soul, the bathrooms are a window to the conveniences of life. The restrooms in the Beijing airport had the squat toilet option. I knew I would encounter squat toilets, but for some reason I didn’t anticipate it happening so soon into the trip. Thank goodness I always travel with toilet paper!
We arrived in Bangkok late but we headed to the mall next to our hotel for food. We chose a hibachi-style Korean place where the food was cooked table-side. My first few bites were delicious and then I felt the burn. I don’t eat spicy stuff so handed off my food to Adam. Luckily my mom taught me to always travel with peanut-butter crackers – you know, the little rounds ones that come in a pack of six. Mild. Heat and cold tolerant. And definitely a game changer when you don’t have anything suitable to eat.
We hopscotched around the world before landing in Beijing for a really long layover – nearly 24 hours. We exited the airport to do a bit of sightseeing but immediately encountered language issues. Our translator apps weren’t working well and the wifi was virtually nonexistent. We returned to the airport to wait for the next flight. We took comfort knowing it would be different as soon as we met up with our tour group. But spending an entire day in an airport was miserable!
If the eyes are the window to the soul, the bathrooms are a window to the conveniences of life. The restrooms in the Beijing airport had the squat toilet option. I knew I would encounter squat toilets, but for some reason I didn’t anticipate it happening so soon into the trip. Thank goodness I always travel with toilet paper!
We arrived in Bangkok late but we headed to the mall next to our hotel for food. We chose a hibachi-style Korean place where the food was cooked table-side. My first few bites were delicious and then I felt the burn. I don’t eat spicy stuff so handed off my food to Adam. Luckily my mom taught me to always travel with peanut-butter crackers – you know, the little rounds ones that come in a pack of six. Mild. Heat and cold tolerant. And definitely a game changer when you don’t have anything suitable to eat.
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Day 2: Bangkok
Our tour group assembled and we departed amid the hustle and bustle that is Bangkok. First up: visits to two renowned temples -- the Golden Buddha and the Reclining Buddha. As is customary, we were shoeless much of the time but especially when in temples. When you think about all the nasty feet walking around, it’s really kind of icky. We were touched by the reverence for Buddha (and the many, many, many Buddha statues!). The vast amount of gold and all the Buddha statues were truly something to behold.
That evening Adam and I took a taxi across town. It was rush hour and our taxi driver was rather cranky, huffing and puffing for nearly twenty minutes. While we didn’t speak his language, it was apparent he was in distress. Suddenly and without warning he makes a sharp turn into a gas station and abandoned us with the engine running (though in park). When we hear him yell as he is running from the car we looked at each other and burst out laughing. Though his English wasn’t very good, we were able to understand him. “Bathroom.” Turns out he wasn’t really a grumpy taxi driver after all. And again I am reminded not to judge a book by the cover.
Side Note: Driving about Thailand we encountered thousands (no kidding) of scooters. So many people on scooters. As we pondered their life, we developed our own storyline for them. We dubbed them the scooter gangs of Bangkok: the Southside Scoots, the Northside Ladyboys, the Westside Wranglers, and the Eastside Errand Girls. As Adam named each of the four gangs of Bangkok, he created a gang sign and backstory. The Southside Scoots was the original gang -- and the gang we joined. The Northside Ladyboys were a large gang as it was comprised of the many, many young men in Bangkok who dressed like ladies. The Westside Wranglers were known for their snake-wrangling prowess. The Eastside Errand Girls were assassins. From that point on, as we moved about Thailand we engaged in a running commentary about the scooter drivers we saw and to which of the gangs they belonged. When we happened upon scooter drivers who were in the Southside Scoots, our gang, Adam would flash our gang sign. It was the funniest way to pass time traveling from city to city.
We had the taxi driver take us to one of the malls where we couldn’t resist getting a fish pedicure! Adam enjoyed it while it was unbearable for me as I am extremely ticklish. We explored Chinatown and wondered does every country on earth have one?! We created our own version of carpool karaoke with a taxi driver. I delighted in being around people that were my height! At one market, a local and I giggled as we struggled to get something down from a tall shelf. Finally, we found a tall, American man to get it down for us.
Our tour group assembled and we departed amid the hustle and bustle that is Bangkok. First up: visits to two renowned temples -- the Golden Buddha and the Reclining Buddha. As is customary, we were shoeless much of the time but especially when in temples. When you think about all the nasty feet walking around, it’s really kind of icky. We were touched by the reverence for Buddha (and the many, many, many Buddha statues!). The vast amount of gold and all the Buddha statues were truly something to behold.
That evening Adam and I took a taxi across town. It was rush hour and our taxi driver was rather cranky, huffing and puffing for nearly twenty minutes. While we didn’t speak his language, it was apparent he was in distress. Suddenly and without warning he makes a sharp turn into a gas station and abandoned us with the engine running (though in park). When we hear him yell as he is running from the car we looked at each other and burst out laughing. Though his English wasn’t very good, we were able to understand him. “Bathroom.” Turns out he wasn’t really a grumpy taxi driver after all. And again I am reminded not to judge a book by the cover.
Side Note: Driving about Thailand we encountered thousands (no kidding) of scooters. So many people on scooters. As we pondered their life, we developed our own storyline for them. We dubbed them the scooter gangs of Bangkok: the Southside Scoots, the Northside Ladyboys, the Westside Wranglers, and the Eastside Errand Girls. As Adam named each of the four gangs of Bangkok, he created a gang sign and backstory. The Southside Scoots was the original gang -- and the gang we joined. The Northside Ladyboys were a large gang as it was comprised of the many, many young men in Bangkok who dressed like ladies. The Westside Wranglers were known for their snake-wrangling prowess. The Eastside Errand Girls were assassins. From that point on, as we moved about Thailand we engaged in a running commentary about the scooter drivers we saw and to which of the gangs they belonged. When we happened upon scooter drivers who were in the Southside Scoots, our gang, Adam would flash our gang sign. It was the funniest way to pass time traveling from city to city.
We had the taxi driver take us to one of the malls where we couldn’t resist getting a fish pedicure! Adam enjoyed it while it was unbearable for me as I am extremely ticklish. We explored Chinatown and wondered does every country on earth have one?! We created our own version of carpool karaoke with a taxi driver. I delighted in being around people that were my height! At one market, a local and I giggled as we struggled to get something down from a tall shelf. Finally, we found a tall, American man to get it down for us.
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Our home environment is what shapes how we see the world. We’ve learned that most people behave like we do, have the same idiosyncrasies. We all talk about the weather and food but are in a hurry to get to our next spot. I was impressed that the people we encountered in Thailand were very friendly and helpful. I found it charming how they greeted one another and how respectful they are to all things related to Buddha.
Just prior to this trip, I had extensive foot surgery. I purposely stopped early enough in the evenings to rest my foot and prop it to avoid swelling. So Adam was left to his own devices. He found locals who took him on scooter rides, ate really strange things, and explored cautiously through the party district. He enjoyed the hustle and bustle so much that he spent the next evening doing this as well.
Just prior to this trip, I had extensive foot surgery. I purposely stopped early enough in the evenings to rest my foot and prop it to avoid swelling. So Adam was left to his own devices. He found locals who took him on scooter rides, ate really strange things, and explored cautiously through the party district. He enjoyed the hustle and bustle so much that he spent the next evening doing this as well.
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Day 3: Bangkok
The Grand Palace was absolutely gorgeous. The Grand Palace is to Buddhists what Vatican City is to Catholics. I was amazed!
As you’ve learned by now, Adam is an extrovert! I think he emits a sound or pheromone that lets people know he’s a good guy and safe. While at the Grand Palace, two monks asked if he would pose with them in photos. And a family wanted to take pictures with me. We were celebrities for a brief moment in time only because we looked different, or our heights (my height and the family's height) were the same, or because we have a happy energy about us. During the photo activity, I was mindful to avoid looking at the monks as it is a cultural faux pas.
We spent time exploring Khao San Road (which is party central when the sun goes down) and Rambuttri. Shopping and eating was in order. Adam finally found a scorpion vendor and got to eat a few. We then enjoyed massages. I must say – we’ve had massages on 4 continents and this was by far the best massage we have ever had. And the exchange rate was favorable so everything was very inexpensive. One U.S. dollar equals thirty-five baht (in 2016).
Side Note: We hadn't a clue how hot we would be in Thailand and didn't pack accordingly. We decided to shop for some more climate-appropriate clothes. Adam is taller and more robust than most Thais. Each time he found a shirt he liked and asked for one in his size he was always turned down. One shop owner went so far as to explain in broken English that he was just too big! Thankfully we found some things we could stretch. On the other hand, I’m petite so for the first time in my life nothing was too long, but instead too small!
Later that evening while I was resting, Adam chose to go sight-seeing again. He decided to get another massage. This little excursion was on his own. Recall if you will the language issue I discussed at the beginning of this travel journal. The taxi driver misunderstood Adam’s request and used a somewhat more explicit interpretation of the word. Adam ended in the wrong place! He immediately found a tuk-tuk driver to get him the heck out of there but his tuk-tuk driver (the scooter taxi) was hit by another tuk-tuk driver. Adam was a little banged up but left on foot while the two tuk-tuk drivers argued. When he crossed paths with a standard taxi cab, he hailed it and got back to our hotel. Or so the story should have gone. The taxi driver misunderstood the hotel name and took Adam to a different hotel with a similar name.
While Adam was navigating the streets of Bangkok, I grew worried at the hotel. I was in a small group from our tour group and we were supposed to be going to dinner with them. Adam wasn’t anywhere to be found! My imagination ran wild as I worried about how I would find him in this foreign country and if he had been abducted or robbed. Emotions began to overwhelm me when a taxi pulled up. He exited the cab and mouthed “I’m sorry” to me. Truthfully, he wasn’t late. We are punctual. He just wasn’t early. And once I heard the detail of his story, I was in tears again but this time from laughing. And we were on time to dinner.
The Grand Palace was absolutely gorgeous. The Grand Palace is to Buddhists what Vatican City is to Catholics. I was amazed!
As you’ve learned by now, Adam is an extrovert! I think he emits a sound or pheromone that lets people know he’s a good guy and safe. While at the Grand Palace, two monks asked if he would pose with them in photos. And a family wanted to take pictures with me. We were celebrities for a brief moment in time only because we looked different, or our heights (my height and the family's height) were the same, or because we have a happy energy about us. During the photo activity, I was mindful to avoid looking at the monks as it is a cultural faux pas.
We spent time exploring Khao San Road (which is party central when the sun goes down) and Rambuttri. Shopping and eating was in order. Adam finally found a scorpion vendor and got to eat a few. We then enjoyed massages. I must say – we’ve had massages on 4 continents and this was by far the best massage we have ever had. And the exchange rate was favorable so everything was very inexpensive. One U.S. dollar equals thirty-five baht (in 2016).
Side Note: We hadn't a clue how hot we would be in Thailand and didn't pack accordingly. We decided to shop for some more climate-appropriate clothes. Adam is taller and more robust than most Thais. Each time he found a shirt he liked and asked for one in his size he was always turned down. One shop owner went so far as to explain in broken English that he was just too big! Thankfully we found some things we could stretch. On the other hand, I’m petite so for the first time in my life nothing was too long, but instead too small!
Later that evening while I was resting, Adam chose to go sight-seeing again. He decided to get another massage. This little excursion was on his own. Recall if you will the language issue I discussed at the beginning of this travel journal. The taxi driver misunderstood Adam’s request and used a somewhat more explicit interpretation of the word. Adam ended in the wrong place! He immediately found a tuk-tuk driver to get him the heck out of there but his tuk-tuk driver (the scooter taxi) was hit by another tuk-tuk driver. Adam was a little banged up but left on foot while the two tuk-tuk drivers argued. When he crossed paths with a standard taxi cab, he hailed it and got back to our hotel. Or so the story should have gone. The taxi driver misunderstood the hotel name and took Adam to a different hotel with a similar name.
While Adam was navigating the streets of Bangkok, I grew worried at the hotel. I was in a small group from our tour group and we were supposed to be going to dinner with them. Adam wasn’t anywhere to be found! My imagination ran wild as I worried about how I would find him in this foreign country and if he had been abducted or robbed. Emotions began to overwhelm me when a taxi pulled up. He exited the cab and mouthed “I’m sorry” to me. Truthfully, he wasn’t late. We are punctual. He just wasn’t early. And once I heard the detail of his story, I was in tears again but this time from laughing. And we were on time to dinner.
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Day 4: Bangkok and Ayutthaya
We set out for Ayutthaya via charter bus. We visited the Bang Pa-in Palace which once served as the summer home for the royals. We visited Wat Yai Chai Mongkon which was a temple complex built in the 1300s. Time and people have not been kind to the building and its statues. Mother nature and environmental elements have eroded many of the stones. Many Buddhas are missing their heads which were stolen and sold on the black market. One Buddha head found itself growing amongst a tree and can now be seen within its roots.
We toured Wat Mahathat, believed to have been built in the 1400s. This temple compound was home to another reclining Buddha. It was really a spectacular site. The remains of two princes are enshrined there and it is now the home of Buddhist monks.
The last activities of the day were to visit a floating market as well as market on land. Oddly, we noticed many of the items – especially clothing – were second hand items that had been shipped from the US. Fun Fact: Since returning home, I learned while helping sort clothes for a church’s consignment shop that the clothes that can’t be sold here in the states are shipped to third world countries. I found a Delta Gamma shirt at one of the markets! That’s my sorority! This world is so small when you think about it.
Thankfully the hotel for the night was lush and the food was very good. Unlike our European vacations, we had good temperature control in our rooms in both Thailand and China.
We set out for Ayutthaya via charter bus. We visited the Bang Pa-in Palace which once served as the summer home for the royals. We visited Wat Yai Chai Mongkon which was a temple complex built in the 1300s. Time and people have not been kind to the building and its statues. Mother nature and environmental elements have eroded many of the stones. Many Buddhas are missing their heads which were stolen and sold on the black market. One Buddha head found itself growing amongst a tree and can now be seen within its roots.
We toured Wat Mahathat, believed to have been built in the 1400s. This temple compound was home to another reclining Buddha. It was really a spectacular site. The remains of two princes are enshrined there and it is now the home of Buddhist monks.
The last activities of the day were to visit a floating market as well as market on land. Oddly, we noticed many of the items – especially clothing – were second hand items that had been shipped from the US. Fun Fact: Since returning home, I learned while helping sort clothes for a church’s consignment shop that the clothes that can’t be sold here in the states are shipped to third world countries. I found a Delta Gamma shirt at one of the markets! That’s my sorority! This world is so small when you think about it.
Thankfully the hotel for the night was lush and the food was very good. Unlike our European vacations, we had good temperature control in our rooms in both Thailand and China.
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Day 5: Ayutthaya, Khanchanaburi , and River Kwai
First up was the Khanchanaburi War Cemetery which honors the Dutch (Australian) POWs who were used as slave labor by the Japanese to build the Thailand-Burma Railway. We then visited the bridge over the River Kwai built by the POWs including Brits and Americans. We floated the river on bamboo floats and spent time with a herd of elephants. Those of us who wanted to help bathe the elephants were able to do so. I was a little bit skittish about doing so as the elephants used the toilet in the river water and it was a tad bit too icky for me especially with that foot I was still trying to heal.
As for the elephants, I was delighted to be riding on such a giant creature. However, as our ride progressed I noticed the Burmese men who operated the excursion were mean to the elephants.
First up was the Khanchanaburi War Cemetery which honors the Dutch (Australian) POWs who were used as slave labor by the Japanese to build the Thailand-Burma Railway. We then visited the bridge over the River Kwai built by the POWs including Brits and Americans. We floated the river on bamboo floats and spent time with a herd of elephants. Those of us who wanted to help bathe the elephants were able to do so. I was a little bit skittish about doing so as the elephants used the toilet in the river water and it was a tad bit too icky for me especially with that foot I was still trying to heal.
As for the elephants, I was delighted to be riding on such a giant creature. However, as our ride progressed I noticed the Burmese men who operated the excursion were mean to the elephants.
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One of my most disconcerting experiences of all my travels occurred here. We had to wear swimsuits at this location. The Burmese men were being very rude to me and commenting about my body. They also were very unkind to a heavier woman who was in our group. I was tolerant of their disrespect towards me but decided enough was enough when I saw them mock this other woman. I spoke up to the tour operator and he was quick to assure us all that the abhorrent behavior was from the Burmese men not the Thais. Sidebar: Burmese are the ethnic people from Burma also known as Myanmar and Rangoon).
When we were settling in for the night, our laundry reminded us the day wasn’t over. After all, the clothes were wet from elephant-stinky, river water. Adam volunteered to launder them while I rested. He went into town and found washers but no dryers. He was exasperated as he knew we couldn’t pack wet clothes even if they were clean. They’d be mildewed in no time flat! In typical Adam style, he persuaded a local to take him to what was said to be the only dryer in town. Adam piled on the back of the man’s scooter with an armload of wet (but clean clothes) and away they went. A few hours, few new friends, and more than a few beers later, the laundry was done. After returning to the hotel, Adam concluded the day in the hotel bar with some of our tour group. The Thai cover band invited Adam to sing Sweet Child of Mine with them. He was a hit as was confirmed by everyone who repeated the story to me the next morning.
When we were settling in for the night, our laundry reminded us the day wasn’t over. After all, the clothes were wet from elephant-stinky, river water. Adam volunteered to launder them while I rested. He went into town and found washers but no dryers. He was exasperated as he knew we couldn’t pack wet clothes even if they were clean. They’d be mildewed in no time flat! In typical Adam style, he persuaded a local to take him to what was said to be the only dryer in town. Adam piled on the back of the man’s scooter with an armload of wet (but clean clothes) and away they went. A few hours, few new friends, and more than a few beers later, the laundry was done. After returning to the hotel, Adam concluded the day in the hotel bar with some of our tour group. The Thai cover band invited Adam to sing Sweet Child of Mine with them. He was a hit as was confirmed by everyone who repeated the story to me the next morning.
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Day 6: Ratchaburi and Pattaya
Visiting a second floating market was in store. We were told we’d experience different foods, merchandise, animals, etc. Damnoen Saduak Floating Market was a site to see! Old ladies in their canoes had all sorts of stuff for sale! We bartered like locals and gained an armload of goodies. Fun fact: One of our treasures was a small piece of canvas art that we watched the artist create. It wasn’t until we were home that we realized she misspelled Thailand. Our little "Thiland" canvas is added to our many from around the world.
By this point in our travels we were bus-riding pros. We boarded for our journey to continue and to make our way into Pattaya, Thailand's Sin City. We toured a gem factory which had some of every gem and precious stone imaginable. I bought a strand of pearls. As for food, we found a very round, Irish man whose diner offered Irish food. I needed regular food that didn’t register a gazillion on the Scoville scale so the stewed lamb and Irish potatoes were a perfect dinner.
As was our routine, I retired to the room to rest my feet while Adam and some of the others in our group explored the city. Adam is crusty when it comes to people’s behavior. After all, he’d completed two tours of the Middle East and traveled extensively on vacations. His report as to what the group encountered that night would make even an ooh la la single lady blush! The night life is not for the faint of heart! I’d say it warranted a XXX rating and was glad I wasn’t along with them.
Visiting a second floating market was in store. We were told we’d experience different foods, merchandise, animals, etc. Damnoen Saduak Floating Market was a site to see! Old ladies in their canoes had all sorts of stuff for sale! We bartered like locals and gained an armload of goodies. Fun fact: One of our treasures was a small piece of canvas art that we watched the artist create. It wasn’t until we were home that we realized she misspelled Thailand. Our little "Thiland" canvas is added to our many from around the world.
By this point in our travels we were bus-riding pros. We boarded for our journey to continue and to make our way into Pattaya, Thailand's Sin City. We toured a gem factory which had some of every gem and precious stone imaginable. I bought a strand of pearls. As for food, we found a very round, Irish man whose diner offered Irish food. I needed regular food that didn’t register a gazillion on the Scoville scale so the stewed lamb and Irish potatoes were a perfect dinner.
As was our routine, I retired to the room to rest my feet while Adam and some of the others in our group explored the city. Adam is crusty when it comes to people’s behavior. After all, he’d completed two tours of the Middle East and traveled extensively on vacations. His report as to what the group encountered that night would make even an ooh la la single lady blush! The night life is not for the faint of heart! I’d say it warranted a XXX rating and was glad I wasn’t along with them.
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Day 7: Pattaya, Bangkok, and Beijing
On our last day in Thailand, we ratcheted down our activity to pack and prepare for the next leg. We decided to go to the mall in Pattaya to cool off. The big surprise at the mall? A kiosk with the darned Israeli Dead Sea Cosmetics company! How many times have I ducked behind other mall-goers to avoid the lure of the salesmen and their free samples or demonstrations?
Unfolding in front of me in a slow motion I saw Adam sucked into the pitch! We traveled nearly all the way around the world so Adam could buy Dead Sea products. The same company that’s less than a mile from our house. And in our home towns. And every major mall in America. And we hauled back those over-priced beauty products with all our treasured souvenirs. And then they got lost in a drawer in our bathroom at home.
Although the rest of the day was spent traveling back to Bangkok, we got one last massage. I was grateful for it later as this was a strange day. We had to catch our flight in the middle of the night and there was a time change. We literally did not experience a night/sleep period on Day 7. We tried sleeping on the plane but while Air China is a nice air line, we just couldn’t get comfortable. Even though we are young, this bus/pack/fly day wreaked havoc on us!
On our last day in Thailand, we ratcheted down our activity to pack and prepare for the next leg. We decided to go to the mall in Pattaya to cool off. The big surprise at the mall? A kiosk with the darned Israeli Dead Sea Cosmetics company! How many times have I ducked behind other mall-goers to avoid the lure of the salesmen and their free samples or demonstrations?
Unfolding in front of me in a slow motion I saw Adam sucked into the pitch! We traveled nearly all the way around the world so Adam could buy Dead Sea products. The same company that’s less than a mile from our house. And in our home towns. And every major mall in America. And we hauled back those over-priced beauty products with all our treasured souvenirs. And then they got lost in a drawer in our bathroom at home.
Although the rest of the day was spent traveling back to Bangkok, we got one last massage. I was grateful for it later as this was a strange day. We had to catch our flight in the middle of the night and there was a time change. We literally did not experience a night/sleep period on Day 7. We tried sleeping on the plane but while Air China is a nice air line, we just couldn’t get comfortable. Even though we are young, this bus/pack/fly day wreaked havoc on us!
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Day 8: Beijing
The airplane arrived in Beijing after five hours in the air but well before the sunrise. The customs and immigration agent was hostile -- no, downright mean -- to us. There was only one line open for the longest time. When a second line opened, the older woman next to me and I were relieved. The agent gestured to some of us in line to come to the other line every couple of minutes. She and I exchanged glances and I motioned for her to go ahead. The agent wasn't having any bit of common courtesy and proceeded to yell at me. Evidently, I was the only person who was permitted to go next -- not the woman who arrived at the same time to the line.
Our options for this day were to get some rest and travel with our group to the Great Wall later in the day or we could book our own side tour. Adam and I really like doing our own thing with locals so we opted for the second option (which also meant zero sleep!). Our hostess, Xia, was our chauffeur and guide. As we travelled, Xia taught us some Mandarin and shared volumes about the Chinese culture. My first thought upon arrival at the Wall was “Oh, dear, look at all those steps!” But let me tell you, the Great Wall was a site to see! It reminded me of the fortress walls at Machu Picchu in Peru with its many steps. Mind you, we were not in a touristy area; we were the only Caucasian people as far as we could see. Adam and I raced to the wall, saying hello in Mandarin along the way to the Chinese people we passed.
The locals were amused with our greetings of “ni-hao” and many tried conversing with us. They quickly realized we knew nothing else. But that didn’t stop them from asking us to pose with them for photos. Fun fact: Xia told us later that the people we encountered were villagers from the surrounding land and likely had never seen anyone other than Chinese people. How fun! It occurred to us at that moment that was probably what we encountered in Thailand on our little side trips when the locals wanted pictures with us.
The airplane arrived in Beijing after five hours in the air but well before the sunrise. The customs and immigration agent was hostile -- no, downright mean -- to us. There was only one line open for the longest time. When a second line opened, the older woman next to me and I were relieved. The agent gestured to some of us in line to come to the other line every couple of minutes. She and I exchanged glances and I motioned for her to go ahead. The agent wasn't having any bit of common courtesy and proceeded to yell at me. Evidently, I was the only person who was permitted to go next -- not the woman who arrived at the same time to the line.
Our options for this day were to get some rest and travel with our group to the Great Wall later in the day or we could book our own side tour. Adam and I really like doing our own thing with locals so we opted for the second option (which also meant zero sleep!). Our hostess, Xia, was our chauffeur and guide. As we travelled, Xia taught us some Mandarin and shared volumes about the Chinese culture. My first thought upon arrival at the Wall was “Oh, dear, look at all those steps!” But let me tell you, the Great Wall was a site to see! It reminded me of the fortress walls at Machu Picchu in Peru with its many steps. Mind you, we were not in a touristy area; we were the only Caucasian people as far as we could see. Adam and I raced to the wall, saying hello in Mandarin along the way to the Chinese people we passed.
The locals were amused with our greetings of “ni-hao” and many tried conversing with us. They quickly realized we knew nothing else. But that didn’t stop them from asking us to pose with them for photos. Fun fact: Xia told us later that the people we encountered were villagers from the surrounding land and likely had never seen anyone other than Chinese people. How fun! It occurred to us at that moment that was probably what we encountered in Thailand on our little side trips when the locals wanted pictures with us.
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I allowed myself to slip into my “I wonder when” mode and imagined what life was like for those who built the wall. The first wall -- Qin Great Wall -- was begun around 7 BC and took about 20 years to build with as many as a half million soldiers conscripting (forcing) a half-million workers in the effort. Forced labor peaked at 1.5 million workers before it ended in 17 AD.
While on the wall, we encountered what looked to be guards. In reality, they were reenactors who were there to pose with tourists – for a fee of course.
There are three ways down from the Wall. A cable car ride, stairs or the toboggan slide. We chose the toboggan which is like a luge or a dry water slide. It wound its way through the hillside. Once back to street level, we found a dumpling vendor before we headed to Xia’s home.
While on the wall, we encountered what looked to be guards. In reality, they were reenactors who were there to pose with tourists – for a fee of course.
There are three ways down from the Wall. A cable car ride, stairs or the toboggan slide. We chose the toboggan which is like a luge or a dry water slide. It wound its way through the hillside. Once back to street level, we found a dumpling vendor before we headed to Xia’s home.
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Xia said she needed to check on her pre-teen daughter and nephew before taking us to our next location. The visit to Xia’s house gave us a chance to see firsthand how her family lived and meet her family. We enjoyed visiting with the kids. But as we looked around the home, I grew sad for their living conditions. It was very cramped with the bedrooms not the size of a standard walk-in closet. We learned that because Xia was from a village and not from Beijing, her daughter wasn’t permitted to attend high school in Beijing that next year, that she would have to go into the workforce unless they moved back to the village for her daughter to attend the village school. The worry about her daughter’s future weighed heavily on Xia. As was typical, Xia had some merchandise set up to sell. I bought several items as I knew that they needed the income – far more than I needed to save it for souvenirs elsewhere. We wrapped up our visit with the family by celebrating new friendships over ice cream. Xia transported us to the Forbidden City where we bid Zàijiàn.
When we stepped out of Xia’s old SUV at the Forbidden City, our feet felt like cement blocks but we weren’t about to travel halfway around the world only to sit the afternoon out! The Forbidden City was a grand (enormous) palace that served as home for 24 emperors. It is now a museum. We soaked up what sites we could observe but the heat was formidable and the throngs of people only made it hotter. Personal space is a foreign concept IN Beijing.
We abandoned the museum after a short while in exchange for a taxi but we only looked a short while as our feet were literally giving up. We altered our pace to a leisurely stroll through shops many of which had oscillating fans that stirred the air. Once again we noticed that our appearance was markedly different from the locals. This point was accentuated when we realized we were being followed by old Chinese woman who were watching us and laughing. Think I’m exaggerating? Nope! At one point when I tried on some cute, Chinese shoes, a crowd of women gathered around me to watch. We wondered if that’s how celebrities feel. It was odd but fun and we tried to live up to their expectations. At the restaurant we selected, we gave up on trying to eat with continental manners. Instead, we scooped fried rice into our mouths with chopsticks even as more eyes peered at us.
When we stepped out of Xia’s old SUV at the Forbidden City, our feet felt like cement blocks but we weren’t about to travel halfway around the world only to sit the afternoon out! The Forbidden City was a grand (enormous) palace that served as home for 24 emperors. It is now a museum. We soaked up what sites we could observe but the heat was formidable and the throngs of people only made it hotter. Personal space is a foreign concept IN Beijing.
We abandoned the museum after a short while in exchange for a taxi but we only looked a short while as our feet were literally giving up. We altered our pace to a leisurely stroll through shops many of which had oscillating fans that stirred the air. Once again we noticed that our appearance was markedly different from the locals. This point was accentuated when we realized we were being followed by old Chinese woman who were watching us and laughing. Think I’m exaggerating? Nope! At one point when I tried on some cute, Chinese shoes, a crowd of women gathered around me to watch. We wondered if that’s how celebrities feel. It was odd but fun and we tried to live up to their expectations. At the restaurant we selected, we gave up on trying to eat with continental manners. Instead, we scooped fried rice into our mouths with chopsticks even as more eyes peered at us.
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Day 9: Beijing
On the recommendation of a friend of Adam's, we contracted with a British ex-Pat who lives in Beijing. Laura walked us through neighborhood markets and helped us to sample a number of street foods. She took us to the subway and even to a tea-tasting session. We also visited the Bell Tower and Drum Tower and finished the day with some Hot Pot for dinner. At Laura’s insistence, we cooked and ate pig brains. Bleh. We were glad Laura knew what fully cooked pig brains should look like! I have to admit, they did just melt in my mouth. But still. Umm. Probably not on my “do it again” list.
Laura helped us hail a cab and ensured we would be transported to the correct destination. Her ability to speak Mandarin was more than helpful for us! While travelling back to our hotel, a van nearly hit our cab. Both drivers yelled back and forth at each other. Our driver used a word that we’d just learned from Laura was a very bad one. Adam rallied to our driver’s defense and repeated the bad word. Our driver was amused and the other driver gave up.
On the recommendation of a friend of Adam's, we contracted with a British ex-Pat who lives in Beijing. Laura walked us through neighborhood markets and helped us to sample a number of street foods. She took us to the subway and even to a tea-tasting session. We also visited the Bell Tower and Drum Tower and finished the day with some Hot Pot for dinner. At Laura’s insistence, we cooked and ate pig brains. Bleh. We were glad Laura knew what fully cooked pig brains should look like! I have to admit, they did just melt in my mouth. But still. Umm. Probably not on my “do it again” list.
Laura helped us hail a cab and ensured we would be transported to the correct destination. Her ability to speak Mandarin was more than helpful for us! While travelling back to our hotel, a van nearly hit our cab. Both drivers yelled back and forth at each other. Our driver used a word that we’d just learned from Laura was a very bad one. Adam rallied to our driver’s defense and repeated the bad word. Our driver was amused and the other driver gave up.
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Day 10: Beijing and United States
We left Beijing early for the longest flight of our lives. After going through security twice: once to enter our terminal and another time to board the flight, we left Beijing early for the longest flight of our lives. Note to future Air China passengers: The airline makes you throw away all beverages, even those purchased within the terminal and have not been opened. We departed China at 3:45 p.m. on Friday Beijing time and we returned to the U.S. at 3:40 p.m. U.S. Central time. We even flew over the North Pole!
Reflecting on the trip, we experienced censorship China-style. We were unable to use Facebook, Google, YouTube, etc. We learned to avoid any mention of a number of historical events as some history taboo and the citizens are not permitted to inquire about the topics. We realized just how complex the Chinese and Thai languages are to both speak, write and read. We befriended some really wonderful people but could have done without walking alongside a thousand of our closest friends. We learned that people are intrigued by other people especially ones who are super friendly, have different skin and eye colors, and who smile with their mouths and eyes. We were tickled that we were regarded as celebrities in both Thailand and China.
We left Beijing early for the longest flight of our lives. After going through security twice: once to enter our terminal and another time to board the flight, we left Beijing early for the longest flight of our lives. Note to future Air China passengers: The airline makes you throw away all beverages, even those purchased within the terminal and have not been opened. We departed China at 3:45 p.m. on Friday Beijing time and we returned to the U.S. at 3:40 p.m. U.S. Central time. We even flew over the North Pole!
Reflecting on the trip, we experienced censorship China-style. We were unable to use Facebook, Google, YouTube, etc. We learned to avoid any mention of a number of historical events as some history taboo and the citizens are not permitted to inquire about the topics. We realized just how complex the Chinese and Thai languages are to both speak, write and read. We befriended some really wonderful people but could have done without walking alongside a thousand of our closest friends. We learned that people are intrigued by other people especially ones who are super friendly, have different skin and eye colors, and who smile with their mouths and eyes. We were tickled that we were regarded as celebrities in both Thailand and China.
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