Peru
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Upon Adam's return to the states from Afghanistan he also returned to college. And in the months that followed, we both enrolled in a course that concluded with a two-week trip to Peru. Students majoring in a variety of degrees came along for the adventure. The prep work for the trip included some things we learned separately depending on the degree program in which we were enrolled (computer-aided design and drafting, biology, education, and spanish language). My assignment was to freshen up on my Spanish and create cheat-sheets for everyone to use during the trip while Adam's assignment was to freshen up on his GPR (ground-penetrating radar) skills which he had already mastered while in army.
Our adventure in Peru began in Lima. We enjoyed a city tour in an open-air double decker bus. Our first major stop was at the Monastery of San Francisco which was built in 1673 and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The tour began with a small earthquake as we got off the bus that apparently didn't surprise anyone other than the tourists. We took a hushed walk through the musty, cold catacombs! Never had we seen so many human bones in one place. It was a bit creepy as our imaginations wondered the history behind the bones which were separated into bricked compartments of similar bones (long thigh bones here and pelvic bones there). Whose bones were these? What had their lives been like? As a Catholic with much appreciation for reverence, I also enjoyed the large sanctuary immediately above the catacombs, and I purchased a rosary just as I do at the gift shop of every Catholic church I visit on my travels. It’s always fun to visit with other tourists during our travels. At this location in the church, we encountered travelers who were also from Arkansas. Often Arkansans who are sport fans feel compelled to “call the hogs” (which sounds like “woo pig sooie” times three) as a sign of unity and camaraderie and this time was no different. The hubby was all in with the revelry though it always embarrasses me a little, but they sure enjoyed their accomplished “marking” yodel.
Our adventure in Peru began in Lima. We enjoyed a city tour in an open-air double decker bus. Our first major stop was at the Monastery of San Francisco which was built in 1673 and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The tour began with a small earthquake as we got off the bus that apparently didn't surprise anyone other than the tourists. We took a hushed walk through the musty, cold catacombs! Never had we seen so many human bones in one place. It was a bit creepy as our imaginations wondered the history behind the bones which were separated into bricked compartments of similar bones (long thigh bones here and pelvic bones there). Whose bones were these? What had their lives been like? As a Catholic with much appreciation for reverence, I also enjoyed the large sanctuary immediately above the catacombs, and I purchased a rosary just as I do at the gift shop of every Catholic church I visit on my travels. It’s always fun to visit with other tourists during our travels. At this location in the church, we encountered travelers who were also from Arkansas. Often Arkansans who are sport fans feel compelled to “call the hogs” (which sounds like “woo pig sooie” times three) as a sign of unity and camaraderie and this time was no different. The hubby was all in with the revelry though it always embarrasses me a little, but they sure enjoyed their accomplished “marking” yodel.
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We visited Peru's World Trade Center which is housed at the Universidad de Loyola. An adjacent culinary program meant we were treated to some incredible albeit very different food including cubed octopus with the little suction cups precisely displayed sunny-side up and Chichi Morada, a type of purple corn drink. We visited the US Embassy where we learned volumes about the cultural and economy of Peru.
The most interesting part of our time in Lima occurred at the archaeological site Huaca Pucllana. This place was a seven-story pyramid of dirt located in the Miraflores district of Lima. Until a few decades ago, the site wasn’t developed and was a hangout spot for teens. Around 1970, scientists and local leaders realized it was really a historic site under the dirt and began the slow excavation project which continues today. Unfortunately, the site's archaeologists lack modern technology and must complete the excavation in an outdated and slow fashion. For instance, they still sketch by hand as opposed to using technology to capture the artifacts digitally. Our team was there to help them map the site using GPS coordinates. My little team, however, was to use GPR (ground-penetrating radar) to detect hyperbolas underground. These hyperbolas were blips on computer monitors that were attached to the GPR system and the blips suggested artifacts below the earth’s surface. In one area we detected multiple hyperbolas that were thought to be mummies though there was no way to immediately stop and scoop out dirt to see if we were right. That’s not how excavation works! Plus, as mentioned, funding and resources were not abundant. Since leaving Peru we have learned the site archaeologists had indeed located mummies of what they believe to be a royal family in the area we indicated. Isn’t that just so stinkin' cool?!
The most interesting part of our time in Lima occurred at the archaeological site Huaca Pucllana. This place was a seven-story pyramid of dirt located in the Miraflores district of Lima. Until a few decades ago, the site wasn’t developed and was a hangout spot for teens. Around 1970, scientists and local leaders realized it was really a historic site under the dirt and began the slow excavation project which continues today. Unfortunately, the site's archaeologists lack modern technology and must complete the excavation in an outdated and slow fashion. For instance, they still sketch by hand as opposed to using technology to capture the artifacts digitally. Our team was there to help them map the site using GPS coordinates. My little team, however, was to use GPR (ground-penetrating radar) to detect hyperbolas underground. These hyperbolas were blips on computer monitors that were attached to the GPR system and the blips suggested artifacts below the earth’s surface. In one area we detected multiple hyperbolas that were thought to be mummies though there was no way to immediately stop and scoop out dirt to see if we were right. That’s not how excavation works! Plus, as mentioned, funding and resources were not abundant. Since leaving Peru we have learned the site archaeologists had indeed located mummies of what they believe to be a royal family in the area we indicated. Isn’t that just so stinkin' cool?!
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After exploring Lima we flew to Cusco located in the Peruvian Andes. Cusco’s elevation is 11,152 feet above sea level and it was noticeable as soon as we got off the plane. Whew! As we exited the Cusco airport, our tour guide Rudy of Inka Traces Tour Company was waiting for us in the parking lot. He answered some pertinent questions including, "Is the invisible elephant on my chest what altitude feels like? Do we need to buy oxygen containers? Will coca leaves make me fail a drug test?" The answers, yes, no (hotels have oxygen containers for you to use) and no, respectively." He’s a local and very well-liked by everyone we encountered. Rudy showed us everything imaginably related to the Spanish and Incan cultures from stunning Catholic churches to rock altars chiseled for sacrifice. We visited Saqsaywaman, the capital of the Inca Empire, which is perched on the mountainside overlooking Cusco. Incredibly, the granite stones that make up the fortress walls are larger than cars and they have precisely carved notches and corners. While visiting Saqsaywaman (which Rudy says can be pronounced “Sexy Woman” and can be fairly close to accurately pronounced), we encountered a priest from California with two nuns who were members of the Missionaries of Charity Order. They’d worked with Mother Teresa and now operated a Missionaries of Charity home in Cusco!
Sidebar: Let me tell you a funny story about relaxing in Cusco. Cusco is a city of about a quarter million people. It’s ancient and modern all at the same time. And did I mention the altitude? We were light headed and tired but still amazed at what we were seeing. Like any tourist area, there are many people vying to earn a few extra bucks. Cusco was no different. Colorfully-dressed children and baby lambs worked many corners drawing us in with cuteness and then charging for a picture with them.
As the evening fell, we noticed women everywhere we turned offering massages. Adam begged and begged me to agree to massages but it was getting late. Besides, we didn’t speak Spanish and the idea of a massage where I couldn’t communicate at all sounded stressful. Adam persisted and found a woman offering a couple’s 30-minute massage. I reluctantly agreed. The woman led us down a dark road, then up a set of wobbly stairs and into a building. Inside, men and women appeared to be waiting on us and greeted us as we entered. This made me feel even more uneasy! The voice in my head said “Which one of them is going to drug us and take our organs?" We were led into a room and prepped for the massage. Uncertain of our safety, I hid our belongings in different parts of the pile of clothes. I then hopped onto a piece of plywood which was covered with alpaca wool. Really, though, I wasn’t sure if the hair was alpaca or a collection of prior tourists. I told myself unconvincingly that it was alpaca and then hoped for the best. Ours masseuses arrived and began the massages. Adam was clearly in the moment "ooing" and "awing" the entire time. On the other hand, I mentally prepared to be mugged. My masseuse poured steaming hot water in a bowl below me and mixed into the water a variety of oils. My inner voice was chattering and I heard it say “this is it – we are being drugged." All of a sudden, my masseuse crawled onto the plywood and began massaging my back. That’s when I realized she was very pregnant. That lady and her bebé were tag-teaming this massage. I'm in disbelief at this point and the drugs are obviously not working and all the while Adam is still "ooing" and "awing." Thankfully the massage ended peacefully; I still have all of my organs and now have a good story to tell.
Sidebar: Let me tell you a funny story about relaxing in Cusco. Cusco is a city of about a quarter million people. It’s ancient and modern all at the same time. And did I mention the altitude? We were light headed and tired but still amazed at what we were seeing. Like any tourist area, there are many people vying to earn a few extra bucks. Cusco was no different. Colorfully-dressed children and baby lambs worked many corners drawing us in with cuteness and then charging for a picture with them.
As the evening fell, we noticed women everywhere we turned offering massages. Adam begged and begged me to agree to massages but it was getting late. Besides, we didn’t speak Spanish and the idea of a massage where I couldn’t communicate at all sounded stressful. Adam persisted and found a woman offering a couple’s 30-minute massage. I reluctantly agreed. The woman led us down a dark road, then up a set of wobbly stairs and into a building. Inside, men and women appeared to be waiting on us and greeted us as we entered. This made me feel even more uneasy! The voice in my head said “Which one of them is going to drug us and take our organs?" We were led into a room and prepped for the massage. Uncertain of our safety, I hid our belongings in different parts of the pile of clothes. I then hopped onto a piece of plywood which was covered with alpaca wool. Really, though, I wasn’t sure if the hair was alpaca or a collection of prior tourists. I told myself unconvincingly that it was alpaca and then hoped for the best. Ours masseuses arrived and began the massages. Adam was clearly in the moment "ooing" and "awing" the entire time. On the other hand, I mentally prepared to be mugged. My masseuse poured steaming hot water in a bowl below me and mixed into the water a variety of oils. My inner voice was chattering and I heard it say “this is it – we are being drugged." All of a sudden, my masseuse crawled onto the plywood and began massaging my back. That’s when I realized she was very pregnant. That lady and her bebé were tag-teaming this massage. I'm in disbelief at this point and the drugs are obviously not working and all the while Adam is still "ooing" and "awing." Thankfully the massage ended peacefully; I still have all of my organs and now have a good story to tell.
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The next day we hopped on a bus and traveled through the Sacred Valley and the countryside. We observed locals portraying their ancestors and showing us how a day-in-the-life of an Inca might have been. We visited an alpaca and llama ranch, local outdoor markets, and historic terraced gardens of the Incas at Ollantaytambo near the Urabamba River. The narrow cobblestone streets were lined with brightly colored buildings and terra cotta roofs. All in all, we were enjoying the experience and doing ok with the elevation. Until we stopped at a restaurant for lunch. At first, we were entertained by the little guinea pig village inside the restaurant. It was as if a Peruvian village and been shrunken and placed in this small enclosure (about 6 x 8 feet). Then it occurred to us that this guinea pig display was the locals’ version of a product display just as a live lobster tank at Red Lobster was back home. What I mean is that these guinea pigs were available for purchase and the chef would butcher and prepare the “cuy” for us on the spot. We opted for empanadas that did not contain cuy and they were delectable though I was really ready to escape the dining room and the squeaks of the resident guinea pigs. We continued through the valley stopping here and there. Later in the day we stopped at the restaurant that 7 years later ABC's The Bachelor's Arie Luyendyk will give his infamous proposal to Becca. Whaaaaat?!
We boarded PeruRail in Ollantaytambo for a two-hour train ride along the beautiful Urumba River to Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of the mountain which bears Macchu Picchu. The next morning we woke early to visit the city in the sky (literally) as Rudy wanted us to be the first visitors. How the Inca people built this city on a mountainside and how it has stood the test of time is beyond me. It’s spectacular. Humanity is truly amazing. We started in the morning before sunrise and it was cloudy but as the day progressed the clouds moved out and it turned out to be a beautiful day at one of the seven wonders of the world. We walked all over the village and everywhere we turned was a llama. They are so darned cute! Rudy arranged for us to visit the sister peak to Macchu Picchu, a mountain peak named Huyana Picchu. Even though we had walked extensively climbing hillsides and stairs at high altitude, we summoned the strength and energy to summit Huyana Picchu and view the majestic Macchu Picchu fortress. The climb was not without struggle. There were no handrails in most parts, required crawling in some areas, and was generally hazardous. The path included a number of places not well suited to someone like myself who is small in stature. Luckily for me, Adam was available to shove my bum upward when I wasn’t long-legged enough to make the step. Thank goodness that we didn’t learn until we were back at the gate that 9 people on average fall to their deaths each year from the mountain! When we reached the top we were in the clouds... literally!
We boarded PeruRail in Ollantaytambo for a two-hour train ride along the beautiful Urumba River to Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of the mountain which bears Macchu Picchu. The next morning we woke early to visit the city in the sky (literally) as Rudy wanted us to be the first visitors. How the Inca people built this city on a mountainside and how it has stood the test of time is beyond me. It’s spectacular. Humanity is truly amazing. We started in the morning before sunrise and it was cloudy but as the day progressed the clouds moved out and it turned out to be a beautiful day at one of the seven wonders of the world. We walked all over the village and everywhere we turned was a llama. They are so darned cute! Rudy arranged for us to visit the sister peak to Macchu Picchu, a mountain peak named Huyana Picchu. Even though we had walked extensively climbing hillsides and stairs at high altitude, we summoned the strength and energy to summit Huyana Picchu and view the majestic Macchu Picchu fortress. The climb was not without struggle. There were no handrails in most parts, required crawling in some areas, and was generally hazardous. The path included a number of places not well suited to someone like myself who is small in stature. Luckily for me, Adam was available to shove my bum upward when I wasn’t long-legged enough to make the step. Thank goodness that we didn’t learn until we were back at the gate that 9 people on average fall to their deaths each year from the mountain! When we reached the top we were in the clouds... literally!
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We experienced giant Amazon corn (choclo) and managed to dine on guinea pig (cuy). We also drank our share of coca tea (herbal remedy for altitude sickness). I’m not sure what conspired against me that last night but on the return flight to Lima I realized I was growing ill. In fact, I spent most of the flight in the plane’s lavatory. Did I mention yet that travelers supply their own tissue paper? Or that many restrooms aren’t quite as sanitary as the public restrooms back home in the US? At any rate, I was still sick when we landed in Lima. None of our remedies worked. We were told that most pharmacies in Peru have a doctor on site who could prescribe for weaklings like me some medication to ease the vile stomach. We managed to find a pharmacy and found the line for service. However, while my mind said I would patiently wait for help, my stomach told me I was wrong. Did I mention there really aren’t any public restrooms in much of Lima? Dear heavens, the suffering was indescribable. And the long taxi ride in the Lima traffic and smog was beyond description. We were grateful to have a modern hotel with clean, cooled air and clean, private restrooms.
The medicine helped and I was back to my normal delightful self the next morning which happened to be our last day in the beautiful Peru. We walked around Lima one more time buying souvenirs and then spent the evening eating dinner on the pier at a restaurant called La Rosa Nautica. It was there that we met my sister-in-law's parents (I should have mentioned my sister-in-law's family resides in Peru and that my own madre was the Profesora who planned this college-course we were taking). My mom was trying to impress them with her Spanish and started talking about our dogs. She meant to say, "tres perros" but didn't roll her tongue well and said, "tres pedos" instead. Adam, Beatriz (my sister-in-law's sister), and I died laughing while her parents and my mom sat there confused. Of course, they were confused as to why my mom was talking about toots while my mom was confused about what she accidentally said about the dogs. Afterward we college folks ended the night in a popular club but Latin culture does not get started until late! We were ready to go home before their night even started.
Rudy is now with Trafalgar Travel as an expert guide for Peru. He has cameo appearances in Trafalgar advertisements and has been seen in videos for special prize packages on Wheel of Fortune!
The medicine helped and I was back to my normal delightful self the next morning which happened to be our last day in the beautiful Peru. We walked around Lima one more time buying souvenirs and then spent the evening eating dinner on the pier at a restaurant called La Rosa Nautica. It was there that we met my sister-in-law's parents (I should have mentioned my sister-in-law's family resides in Peru and that my own madre was the Profesora who planned this college-course we were taking). My mom was trying to impress them with her Spanish and started talking about our dogs. She meant to say, "tres perros" but didn't roll her tongue well and said, "tres pedos" instead. Adam, Beatriz (my sister-in-law's sister), and I died laughing while her parents and my mom sat there confused. Of course, they were confused as to why my mom was talking about toots while my mom was confused about what she accidentally said about the dogs. Afterward we college folks ended the night in a popular club but Latin culture does not get started until late! We were ready to go home before their night even started.
Rudy is now with Trafalgar Travel as an expert guide for Peru. He has cameo appearances in Trafalgar advertisements and has been seen in videos for special prize packages on Wheel of Fortune!
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